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The Warlock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dragon's Back T 
Flying Warlocks T 
Ghostbumps T 
Howling, The T,S 
Imaginary Voyage T 
Planet Waves T 
Romantic Warrior T 
Sarcophagus, The T 
Sea of Tranquility T 
South Face T 
Spell, The T 
Titanic, The T 
Unknown T,S 

The Titanic 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Tony Yaniro
Page Views: 2,538
Submitted By: fubar on Jun 18, 2010

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Randy Leavitt on The Titanic (5.12c), The Needles....


In an area full of aesthetic lines, Titanic stands out as one of the most striking. Wide crack leads to a physical roof, and then it's on: crimp tiny and sequential edges up the steep west face of the Warlock, clipping huge iron home-made bolt hangers every ten feet or so. Continuous climbing with two distinct cruxes on the headwall. Finish by joining the second pitch of The Howling to the summit.


Either rap from the notch (one rope), or from the intermediate anchors on the second pitch of The Howling (two ropes).


For the crack: three inches to .25; draws for the bolts.

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