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Upper East Face
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The Ticket 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Tim Hudgel, Dan Hare, Marc Hirt, 1987
Page Views: 3,742
Submitted By: Willie Mein on May 15, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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Curt MacNeill having fun on The Ticket....
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  • Description 

    This is an excellent route with great climbing on good rock.

    It is slightly overhanging with two distinct crux headwalls separate by a good ledge/ramp. The variety of finger locks, jugs, crimps and slopers require good footwork, body position, and endurance.

    The Ticket is located in Boulder Canyon, at the Upper East Face of Blob Rock, up the grassy gully between East Blob and Bitty Buttress. (Not the gully next to Blob Rock with Jolt Cola, Vasodilator, Conan, etc.. The Ticket is in the next gully to the East.)

    There are several prominent lines on this wall. The trad test piece, Mile High Comic Crack, is the splitter, finger to hand crack, on the left side of an extremely overhanging wall. The first bolted line to its right is The Enlightenment (5.13b/c). The third bolted line, 60 feet to the right of Mile High Comic Crack, is The Ticket.

    It begins with a small triangular roof about 15 off the ground. Four bolts take you through the first headwall (11d) to a ledge with a pin. Pass another 6 bolts up and right, past the upper headwall (12a), to the anchors. 85 ft.

    Hardman/softboy disclaimer: Although The Ticket may be slightly under rated at 5.12a, its neighbor, the Mile High Comic Crack (5.12a), seems even more difficult. Therefore, to avoid controversy, I have left the ratings as they are stated in the guides.

    This wall receives no sun after noon, is protected by wind, and has grassy ledges at its base, making it a good hang on windy or hot summer days.


    Protection 

    10 bolts, 1 fixed pin lead to a two bolt anchor with chains.



    Photos of The Ticket Slideshow Add Photo
    There were only 2 bolts on the upper wall on the FA. We added the 3rd after the fact because the last nut was behind a loose flake. <br />Now there's 6? wow....
    BETA PHOTO: There were only 2 bolts on the upper wall on the F...
    Beautiful Winter climbing day on The Ticket. Climber: Curt MacNeill.
    Beautiful Winter climbing day on The Ticket. Climb...
    Comments on The Ticket Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 22, 2012
    By Anonymous Coward
    May 16, 2002

    Wasn't this renamed "The New Ticket" by Rolofson after he retrobolted it (and since it doesn't follow the original line exactly)? Great route.

    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    May 28, 2002

    I had a chance to jump on this superb route near the end of May and will second the three star rating. I thought there were two fine cruxes, one between clips three and four and another entering the final head wall. Both seemed close to 5.12a with a good rest between. We stayed left of the crack above the ledge which reduced the actual crack climbing to a bare minimum, and while this seemed a sacrilage, the crack did not seem very friendly when taken straight on. Excellent stone, good continuity, lots of open hand forearm pump all serve to rachet up the stars. If only all of the granite in the front range were as nice that on Blob Rock...

    By david goldstein
    Aug 18, 2002

    In mid August, the sun is just leaving this route at 2pm

    By Ken Leiden
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 13, 2002

    Just a heads up to those folks (like me) that are pushing their limit at this grade. I fell making the move to the sloper jug at the top of the crack (about 15 ft above the big ledge) and hit the big ledge just as the rope caught me. And that was with my belayer watching me close. A fall at this move with an inattentive belayer or an extra foot or two of slack will probably do some damage to your ankles. That said, you could slot a nut in the crack a couple feet above the 6th (?) bolt to shorten the potential fall. This move is probably mid-5.11.

    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Oct 21, 2002

    A nice static way to latch the "jug" at the top of the crack is to switch sides in the crack to a layback on the right. This lets you make a static reach to the jug and still keep your waist close to the clip. A slider or loweball will slot high in the crack and be bomb-proof.

    By Thom Engelbach
    Feb 24, 2004

    This is also a great winter route-protected from the wind, and the sun stays on it until the very end of the day on the shortest days of the year.

    By Seth Finkelstein
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 7, 2009
    rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b

    Awesome route, one of the best in BC. Stiff. This could be a candidate for a retrofit since there are a few questionable spinners. If done, the two bolts that are close together at the upper crux should be combined into one (slightly higher than the first) to change the crux from clipping to climbing.

    By ChanVan
    Jan 17, 2010
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

    Definitely stiff compared to other 12as in Boulder Canyon- quite sequential, with a good mix of power and endurance- great route!!

    By claramie
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 10, 2010

    Amazing climb! Stiff for 12- by Bocan standards with lots of various techniques. A climb that would be easier in good sending temps to improve friction / reduce sweaty-little-sloper-pump! Oh, BTW there is a bomber bolt 2 feet right of the pin (which is on the easiest part of the climb) so don't let that deter you from getting on this outstanding and pumpy route!

    By Zachariah
    Oct 9, 2011

    "The Ticket" was bolted by the first ascent party (Dan Hare) in 1992. Rolofson replaced the bolts in 2009 and added a bolt off the ledge. He did call it "The New Ticket" in an earlier guide; however, it is named "The Ticket" in the most recent book.

    By Curt MacNeill
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jan 9, 2012

    Great route and as everyone said very continuous for the grade. More or less two sections of hard technical face climbing separated by a ledge that you can literally sit down and rest on. The top can be tricky until you find out the sequences. A great climb on amazing rock. I am surprised that the beautiful cratered face out right is not bolted on the upper section. It actually looks more inspiring but a great deal harder. Do this route, you will like it!!!!

    By Mark Rolofson
    Jan 22, 2012

    Much misinformation by Anonymous Cowards on this website. Thanks Zach for setting the record straight. Here's a bit of history on the route. When the route was first established in 1987 by Dan Hare, Marc Hirt & Tim Hudgel, the difficult 4 bolt start was avoided and a thin crack to the right was climbed to the ledge. The upper face was climbed with 2-3 bolts. When I first climbed the route in 1990, the direct start had been added by the first ascent party in 1989, but the crack above the ledge required placing gear. In 1992, I returned to find 2 bolts added plus a bolt anchor (by Dan Hare). There used to be a fixed hex in a crack above here to rappel from. Around 1996, I replaced the 3rd & 4th bolts with new Rawl 5 piece bolts in the same holes. These were loose wedge bolts that required little effort to pull out since only about an inch or less was still in the hole. They were probably hand drilled which caused a flared hole allowing the bolts to move in different directions in the hole and eventually work their way loose. Then around 1996,Dan Hare added another bolt for the upper crux,which is now the 9th bolt. In 2009, the original bolts had bent SMC hangers that were spinners. So I replaced all of them including the anchor. I also put 1 bolt on the ledge right of the old pin. As for the climbing, it's like doing two short 5.12a pitches in one 85 foot pitch, since there is a good rest ledge in the middle.