The Thumb Rock Climbing
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|Location: ||40.357, -105.5167 View Map Incorrect?
|Page Views: ||4,025|
|Administrators: ||Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide), Emily Roeben|
|Submitted By: ||Nate Christiansen on Sep 16, 2006|
Kira, 10, on one of the multiple TRs on the South ...
The Thumb and Needle are the 2 more popular crags on top of Prospect Mountain. The routes on The Thumb vary from 5.0 to 5.12a. The Thumb is short (2 pitches at the very most) but offer excellent exposure to the town of Estes Park.
The Thumb has a one rope rappel for the summiter that is off of the west side from slings from a good well-marked chockstone. There is another rappel involving 2 one rope rappels down the north face.
Eds. The original description for The Thumb & The Needle was split for clarity.
The Thumb and the Needle lie on top of Prospect Mountain and the eaisest way to get there is to drive either from CO Highway 7, leaving town until you reach Peak View drive. Take PVD until you see a gold sign on your right that says "Prospect Highlands". This is Curry. Take that sharp right turn. Continue up this short road that will eventually turn into gravel and park at the cropping just short of the gate. Please do not attempt to park in the way of the landowners. The trail starts just up the gully and goes for an enjoyable yet steep 5 min. approach. The first rock you will see is the Needle. Less than 100 yards further uphill is The Thumb. The Thimble is a sliver of rock lying just E of The Thumb.
To descend the Thumb, you can find a set of slings just below the level of the summit on the West Face. Rappel 95 ft to the ground. You can also descend with a 60m single rope by rappeling off the North Face TWICE. You can also spiral down the descent climb, 5.2 heading SW and following the path of least resistance.
Per Nathan Welton
: East Face
A. Left Center
, 8+, 1p, 80', gear.
B. Unknown, bolts.
C. Brace Y'Self
, 10, 1p, 95', gear, pins, & bolts.
D. Unknown, bolts.
E. Right Center
, 7 PG-13, 1p, 180', gear.
F. Center Slot
, 8, 2p, 180', gear.
G. Thumb's Up
, 10-, 1p, 90', bolts +/- gear.
H. Thumb Up My Arse
, 11-, 1p, 100', bolts + gear.
IJ. Epic Sushi Party
, 10, 1p, 90', bolts.
J. Zig Arete
, 10, 1p, 80', bolts.
K1. Confines of Power
, 11+, 1p, 80', bolts.
K2. Vapor Trail
, 12, 1p, 85', bolts.
L1. Mind over Matter
, 12-, 1p, 140', gear.
L2. Never Mind It Does't Matter
, 11, 2p, 140', gear.
L3. North Overhangs aka North Roof
, 9-, 2p, 220', gear.
M. Sucker Punch
, 12, 1p, TR.
N. The Pixie
, 12, 1p, 65', bolts.
, 12+, 1p, 65', bolts.
P. Pigeon Perch
, 9, 1p, 70', gear & bolts.
Q. Rooftop Rodeo
, 11-, 1p, 100', bolts.
R. Uphill Cracks
, 7, 1p, 90', gear.
S. Opposable Distraction
, 11+, 1p, 100', gear & bolts.
T. Rest in Peace
, 11, 1p, 100', bolts.
U. West Face. South Face
V. Unknown, 8, 1p, 70', TR.
W. Unknown, 7, 1p, 70', TR.
X. Unknown, 6, 1p, 70', TR.
Y. Unknown, 5, 1p, 70', gear or TR.
Z. Unknown, 2, 1p, 70', gear.
AA. Descent Route
, 4, 2p, 200', gear.
BB. South Ridge of the Thumb
, 3 R, 2p, gear.
Also note that you can descend off the northwest face in a single 30m rap from the chains atop Rest in Peace
Climbing Season For the Prospect Mountain area.
Weather station 1.8 miles from here
23 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Thumb
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Thumb
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Thumb:
Zig Arete 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Thumb's Up 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Featured Route For The Thumb
Brace Y'self aka Pin Job 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b CO
: Estes Park Valley
: ... : The Thumb
This is a nice, little line with fixed pro on the NE face of The Thumb. It has a pleasant 2nd half of face climbing, which is better than it looks from the ground. The fixed protection on the climb is a bit tough to see from the ground. It shares a start with Right Center, but if you're on toprope, you can start to the left with more face climbing.Climb up to a short, left-facing, left-arcing dihedral about 20 feet up with a fixed orange TCU. Get up on a small ledge. You can ge...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
View of Long's Peak and Estes Park from the top of...
Erin, 4, on one of the multiple TRs on the South f...
BETA PHOTO: SE Face of the Thumb. Nice view of school slabs & ...
Jaclyn, 8, soaking up the sun on a South face TR.
Beta photo for the uphill part of the Thumb.
By John Dubya
Sep 7, 2012
According to a local guide I talked to up there today, there are 2 new lines bolted this summer just to the right as the trail meets The Thumb. He said there was a ".10 and an .11". I led, on-sighted both routes, and agree with the general assessment of the grades. The route on the left is definitely easier with just a few moves of 9+ or 10- and 6 or 7 bolts to chain anchors if I remember correctly. The route on the right starts with a few gear placements (small cams and an old TCU you can clip) and then fairly sustained climbing through 4 bolts to a 10+/11- crux going to the last bolt. The rock on this route is a little loose in places, so be aware, otherwise really fun on both! Does someone want to confirm these grades, add a name, etc?
By Nathan Welton
From: Estes Park, CO
Jul 9, 2013
The names and grades those two routes have been confirmed with the FA, local guide Eli Helmuth, and added to the database. They are Thumbs Up, 5.10- and Thumb Up My Arse, 5.10+ or perhaps 5.11-. Time will tell as consensus grows.
Also note that you can descend off the northwest face in a single 30m rap from the chains atop Rest in Peace.
By Emil Briggs
Aug 4, 2015
Decent climbing but some loose friable rock on these still. I broke a small hold off Thumbs Up and the obvious clipping hold below the crux bolt flexes enough so that it's probably not going to last much longer.