The Thumb Area  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Lat, Long:  40.5746, -111.7574 Map Page Views:  43,419. Good page? (1 like)    Administrators:  Kristine Hoffman, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  Vince Romney on May 13, 2004 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event  Mon Tue Wed Thu Fri 68° | 45° 81° | 48° 90° | 48° 81° | 48° 79° | 50°

BETA PHOTO: Centered in this photo is the Thumb Area.

Description 

This buttress is the biggest chunk of rock in the canyon, and the only place in LCC where you can link 10 or 11 pitches of quality crack, slab, and face climbing and choose between ratings from 5.7 to 5.12 to reach the summit. The view from the top of the Thumb is superb and well worth the all day outing. "S-Crack" defines Thumb climbing, and with the "S-Direct" variation proves that the boys (including the Lowes and former mayor Ted) had their S*** together way back in the 60's when they developed this rock.

Getting There 

Park at the Gate Buttress. Then, prepare for a bit of a slog. Follow a series of paths that head left from the Gate Boulders. I've done this a dozen times or more and I don't think I get the same trail twice. Either way, head west until you get to the huge talus field. Head west across, and simultaneously up the talus hill until you reach the base of the Waterfront buttress. This is the steep, dark-stained block above the dense scrub oak forest. From here, traverse west along the base of the buttress (harder than it sounds) until you reach an area where you are tempted to scramble up, out of the trees. Don't do it! Down hike just a bit to continue west and then move back uphill to the base of the buttress, and shortly you'll emerge out of the forest and you'll be on the trail at the base of the Plumbline wall (a great warm-up climb is the Plumbline 5.10a). Stash your packs in this area, as this is where you'll end up on the descent. From here, traverse west and up for about 200 feet and you'll be standing at the base of the Thumb routes.

The Classics

Featured Route For The Thumb Area

S-Direct 5.9+ R  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : The Thumb Area

Climb S-Crack, or Standard Thumb/Indecent Exposure to the Lunch Ledge.S-Direct tackles the smooth slab left of the Standard Thumb "Trough" pitch. Continue four pitches above Lunch Ledge, unrope, and then hike over the back, or rappel the route.I did this route about 8 years ago, and remember it as serious...but not crazy runout. Something has changed in 8 years, however. OK, I'll admit to gaining a few...ok, a dozen...OK, TWENTY(!) pounds since my first time on this route. But I can still hike m...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of The Thumb Area Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: The general area of the Thumb from across the stre...	Thumb in the clouds. Photo by Blitzo.	j foote on the slab pitch
Two parties of climbers on The Thumb. Nov. 23, 20...	BETA PHOTO: The Thumb from Middle Bell Tower.	BETA PHOTO: Showing the walk off descent route from the summit...
BETA PHOTO: Here is my crappy update to Lee Jensen's nice topo...	November sunset on The Thumb.	BETA PHOTO: An update on Greg's photo. It has two additional ...