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L to R R to L Alpha
This buttress is the biggest chunk of rock in the canyon, and the only place in LCC where you can link 10 or 11 pitches of quality crack, slab, and face climbing and choose between ratings from 5.7 to 5.12 to reach the summit. The view from the top of the Thumb is superb and well worth the all day outing. "S-Crack" defines Thumb climbing, and with the "S-Direct" variation proves that the boys (including the Lowes and former mayor Ted) had their S*** together way back in the 60's when they developed this rock.
Park at the Gate Buttress. Then, prepare for a bit of a slog. Follow a series of paths that head left from the Gate Boulders. I've done this a dozen times or more and I don't think I get the same trail twice. Either way, head west until you get to the huge talus field. Head west across, and simultaneously up the talus hill until you reach the base of the Waterfront buttress. This is the steep, dark-stained block above the dense scrub oak forest. From here, traverse west along the base of the buttress (harder than it sounds) until you reach an area where you are tempted to scramble up, out of the trees. Don't do it! Down hike just a bit to continue west and then move back uphill to the base of the buttress, and shortly you'll emerge out of the forest and you'll be on the trail at the base of the Plumbline wall (a great warm-up climb is the Plumbline 5.10a). Stash your packs in this area, as this is where you'll end up on the descent. From here, traverse west and up for about 200 feet and you'll be standing at the base of the Thumb routes.
18 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in The Thumb Area
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Thumb Area:
The Summit Pitch 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, 45'
Indecent Exposure Variation 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 2 pitches
The Standard Thumb 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 11 pitches
S-Direct, Variation 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Robbins Crack 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
S-Direct 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad, 7 pitches, 800'
Spring Fever 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Nob Job 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Spring and Fall 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Coyne Crack 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, 70'
S-Crack 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, 4 pitches, 350'
Monkey Lip 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Trad, 65'
Featured Route For The Thumb Area
Down Your Throat With A Hairy Goat! 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a UT : Wasatch Range : ... : The Thumb Area
5.9+/ 5.10a This route is a great option if you want more climbing after doing the Thumb. 2 pitches of ridge-esc climbing takes you to a flat summit. The weathered granite will clean up after a few more ascents. Have your slab game on for this one. Drilled on lead...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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