Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Absorbine Junior 
Blocks Direct, The 
Blocks, The 
Bridging the Gap 
Cave Crack 
Chicken fart 
Chicken Heart 
Crack of Dust 
Exit Stage Left 
Exit Stage Right / The L Word 
False Mission Gorge Traverse.  
Gallwas Crack 
General Dynamics 
Hangman's Climb 
Intrinsic Value 
Knob Job 
Knob Job Bypass  
Laundry Chute 
Left Overture 
Lilley's Delight 
Master of Defeet 
Mickey Finn 
Mission Gorge Traverse 
Never Intended 
Obverse from the Gap 
Owl, The 
Prime Directive 
Quack of Ducks 
Quantum Leap 
Rectum Roof 
Rock On 
Rock On Right 
Suzie's Wild Ride 
Thumb Aid Climb, The 
Thumb, The 
Unnatural Act 
Waiting for Bruce 
Wasp, The 
Unsorted Routes:

The Thumb Aid Climb 


Type:  Aid, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus: C2 [details]
FA: Probably 1960s
Page Views: 662
Submitted By: mschlocker on Jan 15, 2007
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
The Thumb, Mission Gorge.
Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>


A bolt ladder of truly manky 1960s (or older?) compression bolts, most of which are hanging out of the rock by quite a lot leads to some fixed gear that has "been there forever". A fixed nut, the only good piece of fixed gear on the route, leads to the only placement on the route (small gear) and a ledge up and right. The bolt ladder continues to the top but a nice anchor exists on the ledge before these.

The climb is overhanging so is good practice, obviously, for overhanging aid.

Walk off back.


The thumb is the overhanging pillar near the top, and to the left of the left climber's trail which is a separate formation from the Main Wall. The climb follows up the rusty bolt ladder on the overhanging face.


Lots of fixed bolts / rivets / other assorted fixed aid gear. Part of the thrill is how old the gear is but then the FA had quite a safe journey on their then new bolts and pitons. Some may complain if any of this was replaced but I would not be one of those people. Some day it will be a necessity.

Bring lots of quickdraws and some nuts and tieoffs for the hangerless bolt studs plus whatever else it looks like you will want.

Comments on The Thumb Aid Climb Add Comment
Show which comments
By steve richert
From: San Diego, CA
Mar 24, 2012

This was my first aid route ever. As of 3.24.12 the bolts and fixed gear held my 185lbs plus gear. I would definitely advise bringing a selection of nuts, to capture the bolts as some of the hangers are akin to a rusty potato chip and others are worn more than half through. The bolts themselves seemed passable. Well I guess they WERE passable really. I brought a standard BD hook with me and was glad to have it, both towards the beginning and pulling onto the ledge at the end.

Fun route, can't wait to do more!