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Boulder Slips
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Boulder Slips 
Brand New Bosch 
Colorado Senior Open 
Edges and Ledges 
Family Guy 
La Lune 
Minutia 
Minutia Arete 
My Way 
Party Time! 
Pumpkin Corner 
Ride, The 
Same As It Ever Was 
Sunlight Arete 
Threshold Variation 
Threshold, The 
Throttle, The 
Useless One 
Where's Bob? 

The Throttle 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Alex Lowe, Greg Davis, and Dan Hare, 1983.
Page Views: 371
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Oct 26, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: The Throttle. Scramble up left to a ramp. Climb ...
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  • Description 

    "The Throttle" climbs a water streak up the steep face left of the arete of The Threshold and My Way. It's harder than the guidebook rating of 5.10 and the protection is very poor. Another route to top-rope from the anchor on My Way (with a directional piece or two near the top of the pitch).

    Start about 30' down and left of the My Way arete below a black water streak. There is a bowl about 30' up that you're shooting for. Climb up to a ramp left of the water streak. Ascend a yellow pillar (5.10 layback and stem) to a stance at its top. Step onto a spike of rock and work right to a little bowl and a black water streak. This move is very difficult; at least 5.11 with no pro. The spike of rock has a broken top; maybe the move was easier 20 years ago. Continue up the water streak and veer right at the top to the anchor on My Way. Lower or rappel 95' back down.


    Location 

    On the right side of the Boulder Slips crag, below a black water streak, about 30' left of My Way. See the beta photo.


    Protection 

    Not much. Best to top-rope from the anchor on My Way. Place a directional anchor or two near the top of the pitch, since the start is well left of the My Way anchor.



    Photos of The Throttle Slideshow Add Photo
    Boulder Slips Route Overview <br /> <br />1. Edges and Ledges, 8, 8 bolts <br />2. Brand New Bosch, 9, 6 bolts <br />3. Party Time!, 9, 5 bolts & gear to 3.5" <br />4. Minutia, 8, gear to 3" <br />5. Minutia Arete, 9+, TR <br />6. Pumpkin Corner, 9, gear to 2" <br />7. La Lune, 12d, 5 bolts <br />8. Sunlight Arete, 10b, 5 bolts <br />9. The Throttle, 11 R, TR <br />10. Threshold Variation, 9+ R, TR <br />11. My Way, 9, 4 bolts & gear to 2" <br />12. Boulder Slips, 9 R, gear to 2" <br />13. Where's Bob?, 10, 5 bolts & 2 green Camalots <br />14. The Ride, 10b, 5 bolts & gear to 2"
    BETA PHOTO: Boulder Slips Route Overview

    1. Edges and Ledges,...
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