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 ADVANCED
Shirt Tail Peak
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Can't Find My Way Home T 
Cro-Magnon aka The Tail T 
Destruction T 
Double Life T 
Emperor's New Shoes, The T 
Future Primitive T 
Gambit T 
Ginseng Junkie T 
Giuoco Piano Direct T 
King Of Pain T,S,TR 
Missing Link T 
Moriarty's Mistake T 
Moriarty's Revenge T 
Mountaineer's Route T 
Mrs. Clean Gets Down T,S,TR 
Serrated Jam Crack T 
Throne, The T,S 
Tiger Balm Arete T 
Windlass or 'The Tail' T 

The Throne 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Mike Clinton & Bill Demaillie, 1988
Fixed Hardware: 5 Lead Bolts [details]
Page Views: 1,559
Submitted By: Paul S on Mar 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Jason Haas follows 'The Throne' (11b/c)on Shirt Ta...

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  • Description 

    This is the bolted line on the same face that Cro-Magnon and Serrated Jam Crack are located. I really liked this climb, lots of good hard face climbing with some nice exposure towards the end. The route starts on the face just right of the start to Cro-Magnon and Serrated Jam Crack. Some hard moves need to be passed before the first bolt, then at which point, make the crux moves out left to join Cro-Magnon right before its crux. The Throne continues to move up and left via some more 11ish face moves to the arete with bolts for protection. Then just run it out with easier climbing to an anchor with a bolt and two pins.

    Location 

    To reach the base of this route, take the same 1st pitch as Cro-Magnon or Serrated Jam Crack. Another option is to climb P1 of Gambit, and traverse right along the ledge and scramble up to the base of the route. You can do two rappels to get back to the ground, or pull left around the arete at the top and continue up with Gambit.

    Protection 

    There's 5 bolts leading to the anchor on this route. Getting to the first bolt can be protected with a micro stopper (I used a # 5) and between the 1st and 2nd you can get the same pro in that you would for the crux of Cro-Magnon (#0.5 Camalot for me).


    Photos of The Throne Slideshow Add Photo
    Jason Haas sets up for the reachy crux of 'The Thr...
    Jason Haas sets up for the reachy crux of 'The Thr...

    Comments on The Throne Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    May 12, 2008
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    Awesome pitch. Really good climbing and good position. The nut before the crux bolt was ~#4 BD stopper and was bomb-proof I used a small Alien below that and a blue Alien between the last and second to last bolts. Save for that and QDs, you don't need a rack to speak of.
    Hard to flash but not terrible moves for average folks. HOWEVER, this would be very hard for short folks to do at all.

    The rap-anchor was partially refurbished 5/08. The rap to ledge is 100' to 110' or so, not 150' as stated in the Rossiter book. ! 70M makes it easily, I SUSPECT that a 60M might too.

    Regardless, you can finish to the summit by continuing 6 meters past the rap anchor to join Gambit at the belay ledge above.