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The Throne (King on a Throne) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a A2

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 440', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a A2 [details]
FA: Fred Beckey, Marlene Daluge, Joe Brown, Donald Liska, 1967
Page Views: 2,795
Submitted By: toddgordon on May 20, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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The Throne is the skinny spire on the far left. Th...

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Description 

This is a fantastic climb on a large formation with an awesome summit. Pitch one; Climb up a large dihadral/corner system, past two bolts, past 5.9 Owth section to a belay from 2 FP on the left. There are a few loose blocks on this pitch as well, so be careful. Pitch 2; climb up the dihedral more (past 2 bolts) into a chimney (squeeze) and a belay ledge just past the notch on the left. (Triple bolt belay/rap station). Pitch three; Climb up past one bolt, to a thin aid crack which widens to hands, then leads to a belay with 3 bolts. The 4th pitch ascends a bolt ladder with 17 bolts in a row. The bolts traverse up and right around the backside of the formation.

Location 

This formation is East of the main Tribal Loop and is approached from the main highway via dirt roads that lead towards the formation.

Protection 

Double or triple rack of cams, a few pins, slings. Extension for the top anchor. I got my ropes stuck on the last pitch;...make sure the rope is extended and the rope will freely pull.


Photos of The Throne (King on a Throne) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: King on a Throne.  Todd Gordon on pitch one. Photo...
King on a Throne. Todd Gordon on pitch one. Photo...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Throne.  Photo: Todd Gordon
The Throne. Photo: Todd Gordon

Comments on The Throne (King on a Throne) Add Comment
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By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
May 20, 2007

I attempted this climb with Dorothy Logan in Feb., 1983. We did 2 pitches and she didn't want to continue. I returned a few weeks later with my younger brother (Who climbs a few times a year with me..), and we made it to the summit on a cold day with some snowflakes in the air. We got the ropes stuck on the summit rappel, and ended up chopping our rope, and making many very short raps to the ground, leaving hundreds of $ of gear. The rappels were made after the sun went down as well. (Epic?) I returned a third time in March 1983 with Brian Povolny and Jeff Hamblen, and we went again to the summit, and I retrieved what was left of my rope, and all the gear I had left behind. I am familiar with this climb, and it holds a special place in my heart and soul. It is a cool climb with a fantastic summit.
By Stu Ritchie
From: Denver
Dec 16, 2009

This is indeed a very cool route. Of note is a historic bit of graffiti at the first belay. One of the 1st ascensionists, Marlene Dalluge inscribed her name in very beautiful letters. Reminded me of the LK pecked into the old last belay of Outer Space on the Bastille in Eldorado Canyon.
By cieneguita
Apr 25, 2016

Only a single mid pitch bolt on first pitch adjacent to very loose block. The anchor at top of first pitch is two bomb proof hexes and one ring angle in poor rock. Rappel route is sunlight corner showing full tower in gordon's photo, there is one intermediate station which is easily bypassed with two ropes. The first pitch starts 30' right of this rap line.

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