The Three Penguins Rock Climbing
|Raptor Closure 2016: Three Penguins 2016 Raptor Closure: All climbing routes on the Three Penguins are temporarily closed due to presence of raptors displaying breeding behavior. Check status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/roc... -Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>
The Three Penguins has a well-deserved name, although as one of my partners pointed out from the summit, the shadow looks more like a camel. It is the first formation you notice driving up into Arches after going through the gate.
Park just past it at an indefinate turnout on the left side of the road. You can do a chossy pitch directly up to the base of the formation or you can scramble up slopes to the right and then traverse back left on ledges (fast and easy).
Weather station 1.1 miles from here
4 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Three Penguins
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Three Penguins:
Featured Route For The Three Penguins
Right Chimney 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b UT
: Moab Area
: ... : The Three Penguins
This route is pretty darn good, especially if you like off-widths.Approach up talus and across a ledge system from the right of the formation. Head around the base to the left - this is the first crack system in a dihedral you come to. The first pitch of the route basically starts at fingers and works its way to fists - the crux being getting over the obvious bulge. Belay at fixed anchors 2/3 the way up the tower. The last third of the tower is a delightful struggle up a flaring off-width - ...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
Three Penguins from below
A cave we passed through on the approach
Near the base of the route. We geared up here, whe...
BETA PHOTO: Another view of The Three Penguins
The three birds; kind of hard to tell from this a...
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
May 7, 2003
You can also approach the Penguins from the west: scramble up the drainage west of them and gain the same ledge at the base of the formations, follow this right (east) to the base of the routes. This is slightly longer than the approach from the other side but makes for an interesting "Tour de Penguins".
Also, both of the scrambling approaches look rather improbable from the road.
From: Joshua Tree, California
Apr 25, 2007
See Petrified Bear's Dick
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 30, 2009
Well, whatever you do, do one of the walking approaches, because the base rock (Dewey Member Mudstone) is such choss for an approach pitch.
By Perin Blanchard
From: Orem, UT
Nov 30, 2009
"...one of the walking approaches..."
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Nov 19, 2012
Park at turnout on left side of road after the last switchback just past a 15mph sign facing downcanyon, only 1-2 miles from the visitor center. Try to find the most used trail or stay on slickrock till reaching the ledge system that takes you right over. 5-10 min approach.