Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Three Penguins

Select Route:
Anorexia T 
Greater Wrong of the Right, The T 
Petrified Bear's Dick 
Right Chimney T 

The Three Penguins  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 23,881
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Josh Janes on May 5, 2003
Forecast:
Fri Sat Sun Mon Tue
Clear
82° | 50°
Clear
82° | 52°
Clear
76° | 44°
Partly Cloudy
64° | 41°
Clear
67° | 42°
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Know the location? Show us! We need it for cool new features!
The three birds; kind of hard to tell from this a...

Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Three Penguins has a well-deserved name, although as one of my partners pointed out from the summit, the shadow looks more like a camel. It is the first formation you notice driving up into Arches after going through the gate.

Getting There 

Park just past it at an indefinate turnout on the left side of the road. You can do a chossy pitch directly up to the base of the formation or you can scramble up slopes to the right and then traverse back left on ledges (fast and easy).

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.1 miles from here

4 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Three Penguins:
Right Chimney   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
Browse More Classics in The Three Penguins

Featured Route For The Three Penguins
Jon Tashkin following the first pitch.  He's just passed the crux portion.

Right Chimney 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b  UT : Moab Area : ... : The Three Penguins
This route is pretty darn good, especially if you like off-widths.Approach up talus and across a ledge system from the right of the formation. Head around the base to the left - this is the first crack system in a dihedral you come to. The first pitch of the route basically starts at fingers and works its way to fists - the crux being getting over the obvious bulge. Belay at fixed anchors 2/3 the way up the tower. The last third of the tower is a delightful struggle up a flaring off-width - ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of The Three Penguins Slideshow Add Photo
Another view of The Three Penguins
BETA PHOTO: Another view of The Three Penguins
Three Penguins
Three Penguins
Near the base of the route. We geared up here, where there's lots of space.
Near the base of the route. We geared up here, whe...
Three Penguins from below
Three Penguins from below
A cave we passed through on the approach
A cave we passed through on the approach
Three Penguins
Three Penguins

Comments on The Three Penguins Add Comment
Show which comments
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
May 7, 2003
You can also approach the Penguins from the west: scramble up the drainage west of them and gain the same ledge at the base of the formations, follow this right (east) to the base of the routes. This is slightly longer than the approach from the other side but makes for an interesting "Tour de Penguins".

Also, both of the scrambling approaches look rather improbable from the road.
By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Apr 25, 2007
See Petrified Bear's Dick
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 30, 2009
Well, whatever you do, do one of the walking approaches, because the base rock (Dewey Member Mudstone) is such choss for an approach pitch.
By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Nov 30, 2009
"...one of the walking approaches..."
Walking with Lee Jensen to <em><a href='/v/the-three-penguins/105717122'>The Three Penguins</a></em>, May 2009. <br /> <br />Photo by Tristan Higbee.
Walking with Lee Jensen to The Three Penguins, May 2009.

Photo by Tristan Higbee.
By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Nov 19, 2012
Park at turnout on left side of road after the last switchback just past a 15mph sign facing downcanyon, only 1-2 miles from the visitor center. Try to find the most used trail or stay on slickrock till reaching the ledge system that takes you right over. 5-10 min approach.