|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA:||Max Jones 1978|
|Submitted By:||urs on Jul 25, 2008|
|Comments on The Thing||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Aug 26, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
|Though easier, harder to protect than peter principle..|
From: New Haven, CT
Nov 18, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
|I thought the direct variation was a bit harder than Peter Principle, though not as sustained. Great route.|
By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Jul 30, 2014
Direct variation: Harder moves than Peter Principle.
Overall, the climb is probably as sustained as Peter Principle, and more pumpy in nature. Also, we were unable to find the 5.10c version of this climb. Coming in from the right seems harder than the direct variation. Is this an old sand bag, or are we missing some key beta on the sloper traverse?
The direct variation protects pretty well, though there will be a run out (that appears safe) from pulling the bulge to the hand jams above the sloping mantle. A solid as can be 0.5" camalot will be the last piece before the run.
One #4 Camalot was sufficient. Up high, finger-sized cams are nice, and there are some offset cam options. Be prepared to run it a bit at the top, the fall would be clean.