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Thin Thin, The 
This Old Route 
Total Lack of Jump 
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Zone of Exclusion 

The Thin Thin 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c [details]
FA: FA Garth Miller, EB Steve Tucker
Season: Morning and Late Evening Shade
Page Views: 376
Submitted By: Alex McIntyre on Jun 5, 2013
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In the roof near the start of The Thin Thin. Phot...

Description 

The Thin Thin starts in the left of two scoop features in the middle of Main Wall, about 7 feet off the ground. Pull off the ground and head through the short roof on jugs to a small, round hueco. Catch a quick shake and hit a small, rounded edge. Pull the extremely powerful crux on quarter to half pad 2.5 to 2 finger pockets, culminating in an insane stab for a deep 2 finger pocket. From here, clip the 4th bolt and head slightly right to some amazing natural pinches and pockets on and around the small arete. Tenuous climbing leads to the anchors.

This route is on immaculate pink rock and mostly consists of natural pockets and pinches. There is a certainly drilled pocket above the crux which I skipped (there is a natural pinch and 3 finger pocket a foot or two to the right of it), while the pocket that marks the end of the crux was definitely comfortized and may have been drilled deeper. Aside from these two holds, however, this route is natural and is among the best in Jacks Canyon, and to top it off the grade is solid.


Location 

Around the corner to the right of Total Lack of Jump, just left of Cowgirl Diplomacy. Starts in the left of two scoops about 7 feet off the ground.


Protection 

5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.



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