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Thief, The S 

The Thief 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Joe Kreidel / Joe Shiefman
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 419
Submitted By: Joe Kreidel on Apr 9, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Josie beta for top of the Thief.

Description 

Starts with two bolts of hand jamming and stemming in a textbook dihedral. Two bolts will lead you a large ledge where you can shake, clip the high third bolt, and ponder the arÍte above. Slap, slope, crimp and hook your way up the arÍte, finishing just right of The Sampler.


Location 

Starts in dihedral 10 feet right of The Sampler


Protection 

6 bolts and lower biners



Photos of The Thief Slideshow Add Photo
Eric thinking "where was that right-hand hold?"
Eric thinking "where was that right-hand hold?"
Josie beta on the Thief step #1
Josie beta on the Thief step #1
Eric looking strong on the Thief
Eric looking strong on the Thief
Josie beta on the Thief step #2
Josie beta on the Thief step #2
"now where is the left hold"? Eric on the Thief
"now where is the left hold"? Eric on the Thief
Comments on The Thief Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 17, 2014
By EWod
Apr 21, 2014

I found the "thief", and he/she resides between the last bolt and the anchors. Stole the redpoint right out from under me! Great addition to the mountain.

By "Canada" Eric Ruljancich
From: Tucson, AZ / Vancouver, BC
Apr 26, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Unfortunately I have to report that I was able to steal an entire number grade off of this route. On my onsite attempt I found that by moving just a bit to the right, I was able to greatly reduce the difficulty, while still easily clipping the bolts. Not only that, but a full hands free rest is also available halfway up by thinking outside of the box.

While much easier than the given grade, climbing the route in this manner is really interesting and a lot of fun.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 26, 2014

That's interesting Eric. While looking at the photos I wondered if people were just avoiding what looked like a short move to the right or if it was a depth of field thing. Not sure if that is what you did but that was my thought.

It is easy at times when setting up routes to force a line up a section of rock. This is especially true if it is a cool feature.

By Joe Kreidel
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 26, 2014

I was curious to find out if someone would find a path up the far right slab/crack feature. I am a sucker for arÍtes, so it never felt contrived for me to stay on the arÍte.

I'll adjust the grade, and try your beta when I'm out there next.

By "Canada" Eric Ruljancich
From: Tucson, AZ / Vancouver, BC
Apr 26, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This is really fun, no matter how you climb it, so you should do it!

Note: For the easier way up this thing, don't go into the grungy corner, but stay just right of the bolt line, using crimps, sidepulls and at times the clean looking crack system.

By jbak
Apr 26, 2014

When I was there 2-3 years back, I remember thinking the crack system might be a good gear line. Anyone done it ?

By "Canada" Eric Ruljancich
From: Tucson, AZ / Vancouver, BC
Apr 26, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

John: Yeah I think it would go on gear. If I am motivated I might haul my rack out next time, then again it's a long hike for one route....

By EWod
Apr 26, 2014

Move the bolts to the left, so they are unreachable from the crack? Sounds like Canada got an FA!
The climbing on the face is too cool to pass up.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 27, 2014

Sounds like some gym tape might be needed! Maybe they can adjust the bolts to force the issue. It can't always be done without ruining the natural flow and making people feel manipulated. This is the problem with climbing real rock, sometimes a nearby weakness makes it impossible to maintain a more sustained climb.

By EWod
Apr 27, 2014

True Eric. Keep the bolts where they are, and put a description for the Canadian Thief variation. Staying on the Face/Arete feels like a 12b to me, and it's such a good climb that way.

By Joe Kreidel
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 27, 2014

Unless lots of people disagree, I don't think the bolts need to be moved. Canada Eric clipped all bolts just fine with his beta, so it is safe to climb that way, and I don't like the idea of moving them left to force people to stay left.

Glad you guys enjoyed the route!

By Jimbo
Jun 17, 2014

Murdock and I also looked at that crack. Why not just bolt it. No more dark side than the others.
I'm with Canada, I don't want to haul a rack out there for 35 feet of crack.