This rock, like the Grotto, is close to the parking lot but sees very little traffic. These climbs are mostly toprope lines, but some could be led with careful attention to pro. There is a very close downclimb via a large chimney just North of the block where the climbs are. The climbs are not straightforward to set up a top rope anchor, this might be the cause of this crags lack of popularity. Be prepared to make anchors with gear (large pieces help), long slings, and perhaps an extra rope.
From the South Canyon entrance, park in the second lot on the right (Juniper rock lot) and follow the paved trail East to the paved trail which parralels the rim top. There are two guard rails on this section of the rim, The Traffic Area is south of the north rail and it is north of The Grotto. Follow the rim top until you can recognize the big chimney and S facing wall with the climbs on it.
Featured Route For The Terminal Area
This route goes up the SW corner between a small section of rock and the main wall in the heart of The Terminal Area. It starts in a very bushy/mossy crack (whcih can be avoided by climbng slightly to the right) and then redeems itself with a few interesting moves of crack climbing. ...[more] Browse More Classics in CO