|513 page views|
This mixed route climbs the arete to the left of Skull Fracture. Begin in an easy crack, or on the face to the cracks right(5.9s), and work your way up to a bolt. Follow a couple more bolts straight up to a small roof at the base of a left-leaning groove. Clip a bolt and mantle over to a stance. Place a piece into the crack on the right, and make a balancy 11a no hands move over to the crack. Follow the flared 5.9 crack to its top with good gear. Move up left to the next roof and clip another bolt. Pull over the roof on awesome rock and great holds (10+) and move out right to the arete. Follow the arete to the top clipping more bolts.
There is not a bolt anchor at the top, so bring some extra gear. The easiest way to descend seems to be srambling off to the west down an easy slab and then around to the south face.
Start to the left of Skull Fracture. Look for three bolts protecting a slab 20' up. The Temple starts 20 or so feet to the left of these bolts in a right-leaning system. We like to climb the clean face to the right of the easy cracks straight up to a cool flake.
Bring a standard rack and some quickdraws. I used about 6 cams from finger to hand-sized. Bring extra gear for the anchor.
BETA PHOTO: This shows the Temple and its burly neighbor, Inca...
On the arete.
The technical crux. Very balancy.