Type: Trad, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: M. Hartrich, Albert Dow, Alec Behr May 1980
Page Views: 1,599 total · 9/month
Shared By: john strand on Mar 26, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Private Property DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

A pretty good climb at a moderate grade. Ascends a nice slab with fair-to-good pro, though a little run out at the top.

START: On the slab below, and a little right of, the tree growing from a crack about 20-25ft up. [Var] Climb the slab, passing to the right of the tree, and climb the slab above (tri-cams and TCU's) to a very shallow flake/left-facing-corner (natural thread possible). Up this and on to a stance (with  a 3/8“ SS replacing the original 1/4" bolt). Now step right and make smearing moves (crux) to the slab above. Move up and left (TCU and/or nut for possible belay and/or directional) and then up along a dike. Continue to the dbl bolt (3/8") anchor of "Fools / Reelin'" ....or, about 10-12 feet before reaching that anchor, step up right and out of the dike to the slab and trees above. 140 +/- ft, 5.8+ PG-13 

Variation: It is possible to start on "Standard and Poors" and move right up the slab to intercept the described route below the flake/corner. This variation is less well protected and you have to fight the tree's branches.

Location Suggest change

Roughly 1/2 way along the large tree ledge, Look for a large-ish (6-8" diameter) tree growing on the cliff, with branches brushing the slab above, growing about 20-25 ft up, and just below a small, horizontal overlap. 20 ft, or so, further left the horizontal overlap grows to 2-3 ft in size (and is the start of "Standard and Poors")

Protection Suggest change

1 bolt (the old 1/4 inch was recently replaced with 3/8 inch Stainless) and some small gear

Photos

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