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First Buttress
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Haulage, The 
Magnatude 
Oh it's you Bob 
Sanctified 
Tantrum, The 
Tarbaby 
World's Hardest Five Twelve, The 

The Tantrum 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Doug Reed (1992)
Page Views: 208
Submitted By: ---- on Jul 15, 2013
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Description 

Tantrum has the wildest moves of any of the routes that breach the roof of the first buttress. The rock quality is good and the majority of the holds are jugs and slopers. Begin by flowing through fun moves to the second bolt. Just after this section donít get blindsided by a difficult deadpoint to a sloper. Move with ease to the base of the 10' roof and then rail out the roof on a series of good plates. Use some aggressive footwork to reach a large undercling crack near the lip of the roof. Jam one limb, two limbs, maybe three? When you feel sufficiently wedged, clip the 5th bolt. Finish with a thrilling compression feature followed by a stroll to the anchor. Your enjoyment of this route will likely come down to your ability to securely jam the crack.


Location 

Travels out the longest section of roof climbing at the first buttress. Look for the defining crack feature in the roof.


Protection 

6 bolts + 2 Bolt Anchor



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By ----
Jul 15, 2013

This route would be a good one to try to flash. The moves are strange and you may need to put your body in some unfamiliar positions, but none of the moves are actually all that hard.