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The Talking Tower
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Talking Tower, The S 

The Talking Tower 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Slater, Podhorsky
Page Views: 429
Submitted By: Aaron Formella on Jan 1, 2001  with updates from Aaron Formella

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BETA PHOTO: The pink rope shows the line of Talking Tower.

Description 

This route packs a lot of fun into its short length, and is worth the small hike over to the Spire Area. It starts out with sidepulls and opposition up a dike feature and moves into fantastic hueco climbing and a short traverse up to the anchor. I was surprised by its steepness, which elicits a pump.

There is a larger gap between the last bolt (3) and the anchor, but hang in there and find that good hug to clip the anchor from! The two bolt anchor has one regular hanger and the other is a double hanger that you can lower from. I added a small bailer quick-link to the other bolt so that you can lower off of two bolts rather than a single bolt.

Protection 

3 bolts to a two-bolt anchor.


Photos of The Talking Tower Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The cubbie hole hueco with shelves for your figuri...
The cubbie hole hueco with shelves for your figuri...
Rock Climbing Photo: The push to the summit looks pretty grim. #R+
BETA PHOTO: The push to the summit looks pretty grim. #R+
Rock Climbing Photo: The anchor has a doubled hanger on the left bolt t...
BETA PHOTO: The anchor has a doubled hanger on the left bolt t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Wendy-bee standing in front of the best "5.8&...
Wendy-bee standing in front of the best "5.8&...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pete standing tall in front of his first lead.
BETA PHOTO: Pete standing tall in front of his first lead.

Comments on The Talking Tower Add Comment
Show which comments
By Aaron Formella
From: Atascadero, CA
Nov 28, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

This route packs a lot of fun into it's short length, and is worth the small hike over to the Spire Area. It starts out with sidepulls and opposition up a dike feature and moves into fantastic hueco climbing and a short traverse up to the anchor. I was surprised by its steepness, which elicits a pump. There is a larger gap between the last bolt (3) and the anchor, but hang in there and find that good hug to clip the anchor from! The two bolt anchor has one regular hanger and the other is a double hanger that you can lower from. I added a small bailer quick-link to the other bolt so that you can lower off of two bolts rather than a single bolt.

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