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Camp Bird Road
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Bird Brain Boulevard T 
Blood and Spit T 
Cavegina S 
Chock Up Another One T 
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Cinnamon and Cider S 
Cleft, The 
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Skylight T 
Slip Sliding Away T 
Slippery When Wet T 
Snow Blind Friend, Walk the Line? (submitted as Attractive Hazard) T 
Subterfuge T 
Talisman, The T 
Tasty Talks T 
Thick Scull Thoroughfare T 
Tourist Trap 
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Troutman/Rodent, The T 
Unknown T 
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Wake Up Call T 
Walk Irene, Submitted as Goodnight Irene T 
Weak and the Weary T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Talisman 

WI6 M6

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, 3 pitches, Grade IV
Consensus: WI5+ M6 [details]
FA: P1 T Dickey, P2 unknown
Season: Dec. to Apr.
Page Views: 11,129
Submitted By: Evan Stevens on Jan 1, 2005

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BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the climb

Yield to mining vehicle traffic MORE INFO >>>

Description 

One of the San Juan multi-pitch classics-just as good if not better than Ames Ice Hose. Approach as for the Skylight area climbs, and keep skiing up the road past the climbing. You will see the big drip on the left. Head up the slope to the base of the climb, being wary of the avalanche danger. Should take about 1.5 hours.

1st pitch is straightfoward ice, anywhere from WI4 to 5 depending on the conditions. You can belay on the left side of the ledge from a small tree.

For pitch 2, move the belay about 30 feet to the right, with some questionable pro. I used a KB and a nut, but it is a huge ledge. The 2nd pitch is the business, linking up ice hummucks in a leftward rising traverse. Bad rock, thin smears and drips, really wild (WI6 M6?), lots of rock gear on this pitch. After the hummocks traverse left to a corner/groove and go straight up for another 30 ft. Some fixed gear and more rock pro for you to throw in. Belay at the ledge, with some funky gear on the left side of the ledge.

The third pitch is an amazing all ice picth. Traverse back right on to the ice and climb the steep stuff (WI 5/5+?) to the top, all screws. At the top, traverse right to a tree belay/rappel.

For the easiest descent, DON'T rap off the first tree, walk right a little more, so you can rap straight down to the next tree. Watch your rope ends, two 60m raps will put you back at your packs. Hope the beta helps, just enough to get you out there.

Protection 

12 screws (10, 13 and 16 cm) 1 set of cams from 0.5" to 3", 1 or 2 LA/KBs, 12 runners (include a few screamers).


Photos of The Talisman Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Thin yet precarious, thinking light thoughts.
Thin yet precarious, thinking light thoughts.
Rock Climbing Photo: The "Super Fat" Talisman winter 2006/07
BETA PHOTO: The "Super Fat" Talisman winter 2006/07
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down at the third belay after turning the ...
Looking down at the third belay after turning the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Phil Wortmann on P2.
Phil Wortmann on P2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from the third belay.
Looking down from the third belay.
Rock Climbing Photo: Belay anchor at the top of the second pitch.
Belay anchor at the top of the second pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Eric M cruising up p-3 on Talisman '07.
Eric M cruising up p-3 on Talisman '07.
Rock Climbing Photo: Erik going out and up on P 1-2 of the Talisman Pho...
Erik going out and up on P 1-2 of the Talisman Pho...
Rock Climbing Photo: P2, part deux: Mix'd reviews... consensus is: don'...
P2, part deux: Mix'd reviews... consensus is: don'...
Rock Climbing Photo: The mixed business on pitch 2, amazing line.
The mixed business on pitch 2, amazing line.
Rock Climbing Photo: 2007.
2007.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the headwall of ice 50ft. from the to...
Looking down the headwall of ice 50ft. from the to...
Rock Climbing Photo: Austin T. Rapping from first rap station a top of ...
Austin T. Rapping from first rap station a top of ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The second crux on pitch 2.
The second crux on pitch 2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pat McCarthy coming up to the belay on top of the ...
Pat McCarthy coming up to the belay on top of the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Lean and Mean condition 3-08
BETA PHOTO: Lean and Mean condition 3-08
Rock Climbing Photo: Ice Fest, 2007...Getting into the business, P2 The...
Ice Fest, 2007...Getting into the business, P2 The...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking back at my belayer on the 2nd pitch, upwar...
Looking back at my belayer on the 2nd pitch, upwar...
Rock Climbing Photo: Talisman in fat condition. December 2013.
Talisman in fat condition. December 2013.
Rock Climbing Photo: A lot different than the last two years.  Decent c...
A lot different than the last two years. Decent c...
Rock Climbing Photo: 2007.
2007.
Rock Climbing Photo: Checking the move to the face, P3 The Talisman. Ic...
Checking the move to the face, P3 The Talisman. Ic...
Rock Climbing Photo: P3.
P3.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ice Fest 2007, Recycling screw holes on the P2 blo...
Ice Fest 2007, Recycling screw holes on the P2 blo...

Show All 31 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on The Talisman Add Comment
Show which comments
By Alan Searcy
From: Pine, Colorado
Mar 12, 2008
rating: WI5+ M6 R

Giant ass-whuppin that left me retard happy.
By Rob Griz
From: Frisco
Apr 3, 2008
rating: WI5 M6+

No bolts, all balls. One of the finer pure trad mixed lines. A bit lean but stellar at WI5 M6+R.
By phil wortmann
From: Colorado Springs, Co.
Nov 18, 2013

Lost a camera at the base of talisman last Saturday. I'm sure it's under 10ft of snow by now, but if by chance you find a red camera, hit me up. Thanks
By Princess Mia
From: Vail
Jan 28, 2014

Such a fun and exciting climb.

Two 60m ropes work perfectly for the raps. Just head right at the top for maybe 50ft to the second rap tree. Rap to huge tree on ledge. Another rap to ground. Easy and straightforward.

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