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Camp Bird Road
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Unsorted Routes:

The Talisman 

WI6 M6

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, 3 pitches, Grade IV
Consensus: WI5+ M6 [details]
FA: P1 T Dickey, P2 unknown
Season: Dec. to Apr.
Page Views: 9,244
Submitted By: Evan Stevens on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the climb

Yield to mining vehicle traffic MORE INFO >>>

Description 

One of the San Juan multi-pitch classics-just as good if not better than Ames Ice Hose. Approach as for the Skylight area climbs, and keep skiing up the road past the climbing. You will see the big drip on the left. Head up the slope to the base of the climb, being wary of the avalanche danger. Should take about 1.5 hours.

1st pitch is straightfoward ice, anywhere from WI4 to 5 depending on the conditions. You can belay on the left side of the ledge from a small tree.

For pitch 2, move the belay about 30 feet to the right, with some questionable pro. I used a KB and a nut, but it is a huge ledge. The 2nd pitch is the business, linking up ice hummucks in a leftward rising traverse. Bad rock, thin smears and drips, really wild (WI6 M6?), lots of rock gear on this pitch. After the hummocks traverse left to a corner/groove and go straight up for another 30 ft. Some fixed gear and more rock pro for you to throw in. Belay at the ledge, with some funky gear on the left side of the ledge.

The third pitch is an amazing all ice picth. Traverse back right on to the ice and climb the steep stuff (WI 5/5+?) to the top, all screws. At the top, traverse right to a tree belay/rappel.

For the easiest descent, DON'T rap off the first tree, walk right a little more, so you can rap straight down to the next tree. Watch your rope ends, two 60m raps will put you back at your packs. Hope the beta helps, just enough to get you out there.

Protection 

12 screws (10, 13 and 16 cm) 1 set of cams from 0.5" to 3", 1 or 2 LA/KBs, 12 runners (include a few screamers).


Photos of The Talisman Slideshow Add Photo
Thin yet precarious, thinking light thoughts.
Thin yet precarious, thinking light thoughts.
Looking down from the third belay.
Looking down from the third belay.
Looking down at the third belay after turning the overhanging corner on the third pitch.
Looking down at the third belay after turning the ...
The "Super Fat" Talisman winter 2006/07
BETA PHOTO: The "Super Fat" Talisman winter 2006/07
Belay anchor at the top of the second pitch.
Belay anchor at the top of the second pitch.
Erik going out and up on P 1-2 of the Talisman <br />Photo by Trask Bradbury  (Fat)
Erik going out and up on P 1-2 of the Talisman
Pho...
P2, part deux: Mix'd reviews... consensus is: don't blow it!
P2, part deux: Mix'd reviews... consensus is: don'...
Eric M cruising up p-3 on Talisman '07.
Eric M cruising up p-3 on Talisman '07.
2007.
2007.
Phil Wortmann on P2.
Phil Wortmann on P2.
Looking down the headwall of ice 50ft. from the top. Yee-Ha. Totally Awesome!
Looking down the headwall of ice 50ft. from the to...
A lot different than the last two years.  Decent condition now, but it won't be up for much longer.  At least it was steep.
A lot different than the last two years. Decent c...
Talisman from Camp Bird Rd. December 2013.
Talisman from Camp Bird Rd. December 2013.
P3.
P3.
Jack only needs one crampon for this bit.
Jack only needs one crampon for this bit.
2007.
2007.
2nd pitch of Talisman. Fat this year.  <br /> <br />Photo: Pat McCarthy, December 2013.
2nd pitch of Talisman. Fat this year.

Photo: Pat...
Checking the move to the face, P3 The Talisman. Ice Fest, 2007
Checking the move to the face, P3 The Talisman. Ic...
Lean and Mean condition 3-08
BETA PHOTO: Lean and Mean condition 3-08
The Talisman December 21, 2004. Climber unknown. Met him at Ouray Mt. Sports the day before.
The Talisman December 21, 2004. Climber unknown. M...
Kyle Dempster on the third pitch in super lean conditions.
Kyle Dempster on the third pitch in super lean con...
Looking back at my belayer on the 2nd pitch, upward traverse section. Glassy ice. Awesome.
Looking back at my belayer on the 2nd pitch, upwar...
Ice Fest 2007, Recycling screw holes on the P2 blob traverse... The Talisman
Ice Fest 2007, Recycling screw holes on the P2 blo...
Pat McCarthy coming up to the belay on top of the 2nd pitch. December 2013.
Pat McCarthy coming up to the belay on top of the ...

Show All 28 Photos

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By Alan Searcy
From: Pine, Colorado
Mar 12, 2008
rating: WI5+ M6 R

Giant ass-whuppin that left me retard happy.
By Rob Griz
From: Frisco
Apr 3, 2008
rating: WI5 M6+

No bolts, all balls. One of the finer pure trad mixed lines. A bit lean but stellar at WI5 M6+R.
By phil wortmann
From: Colorado Springs, Co.
Nov 18, 2013

Lost a camera at the base of talisman last Saturday. I'm sure it's under 10ft of snow by now, but if by chance you find a red camera, hit me up. Thanks
By Princess Mia
From: Vail
Jan 28, 2014

Such a fun and exciting climb.

Two 60m ropes work perfectly for the raps. Just head right at the top for maybe 50ft to the second rap tree. Rap to huge tree on ledge. Another rap to ground. Easy and straightforward.