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The Taipan Wall

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Serpentine T,S 
Seventh Pillar, The T 

The Taipan Wall  


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Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jan 17, 2007
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Description 

The Taipan Wall is an astonishing tidal wave of the best sandstone in the universe. This could be a trad/mixed climber's heaven, except that the easiest route up the main wall is 5.12a. There are some good aid and sport climbing adventures though, as well as some shorter routes.

Assigning quality ratings to routes on this wall is difficult. The cliff centerpiece is Serpentine, but it is a climb worth flying around the world for (if such a thing exists), and most climbs on the Taipan Wall should be considered the best of what Australia has to offer.

Getting There 

Follow the Stapylton summit trail all the way to the most amazing wall in the world.

Climbing Season



Weather station 16.2 miles from here

2 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Taipan Wall:
Serpentine   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 250'   
Browse More Classics in The Taipan Wall

Featured Route For The Taipan Wall
Just before entering the scoops on Serpentine's second pitch

Serpentine 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c  Australia : The Grampians : ... : The Taipan Wall
Described by the local guidebook as, 'the premier pitch in the country', Serpentine's 2nd pitch is an absolute must-do if you climb at the grade. This is the Taipan Wall's centerpiece route, and each year hard-men from around the world flock to this cliff to attempt this mega-classic. Undoubtedly the best route in the Grampians, and clearly the best 'hard' route in the country. Featuring a bit of everything, from technical stemming, to roof-thuggery, endurance crimping, and arete slapping. I...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of The Taipan Wall Slideshow Add Photo
The right end of the Taipan Wall in profile from the top.
The right end of the Taipan Wall in profile from t...

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