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 ADVANCED
Scout Slab
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Git 'em Up Scout S 
Ring of Power T,TR 
Super Mario Brothers 
Sword- That- Was- Broken, The T 

The Sword-That-Was-Broken 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Bernard, Katie & Claire GIllett, 2005
Page Views: 458
Submitted By: Mike Pharris on Mar 14, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: The Sword-That-Was-Broken, 5.3 & Ring of Power, 5....

Description 

Fun climb and a great intro to slab work for a beginner.

On the left margin of Scout Slab start up and left in an angling crack and move up the slab past two bolts on interesting slab moves to a small ledge. Continue up into a right-facing dihedral with good gear placements. Two anchor chains are at the top of the dihedral at a good stance.

The guidebook suggests staying on the right side of the bolt line, there are good features here - it's also interesting though on the left of the bolts and maybe a number grade harder.

There is a fourth class ramp from which you could access the chains.

Eds. this is a combination of submissions.

The 2 bolt anchor with chains is tucked in just over the lip at the top. The chains are thin, so plan on a final run up the slab to clean the anchor. You can TR Ring of Power, 5.4 or 5.6 off the same anchors.

Note, small rattlesnakes with buzzing rattles may reside below this route.

The approach to the left via a slot and a high step onto a slab will require a spot for the kids.

Protection 

Two quickdraws for the bolts on the slab a light rack up to a #2 Camalot protect the upper dihedral. Two anchor chains at the top.


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