The Sword-That-Was-Broken
5.4 YDS 4a French 12 Ewbanks IV UIAA 10 ZA VD 3c British
Avg: 1.3 from 10 votes
Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Bernard, Katie & Claire GIllett, 2005 |
Page Views: | 1,495 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | Mike Pharris on Mar 14, 2009 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays
Details
Per Kai Bouwman: the daily CO 7 highway closure/delay access issue is no longer a problem according to CDOT the construction finished as of Nov. 11, 2022.
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
Description
Fun climb and a great intro to slab work for a beginner.
On the left margin of Scout Slab start up and left in an angling crack and move up the slab past two bolts on interesting slab moves to a small ledge. Continue up into a right-facing dihedral with good gear placements. Two anchor chains are at the top of the dihedral at a good stance.
The guidebook suggests staying on the right side of the bolt line, there are good features here - it's also interesting though on the left of the bolts and maybe a number grade harder.
There is a fourth class ramp from which you could access the chains.
Eds. this is a combination of submissions.
The 2 bolt anchor with chains is tucked in just over the lip at the top. The chains are thin, so plan on a final run up the slab to clean the anchor. You can TR Ring of Power, 5.4 or 5.6 off the same anchors.
Note, small rattlesnakes with buzzing rattles may reside below this route.
The approach to the left via a slot and a high step onto a slab will require a spot for the kids.
On the left margin of Scout Slab start up and left in an angling crack and move up the slab past two bolts on interesting slab moves to a small ledge. Continue up into a right-facing dihedral with good gear placements. Two anchor chains are at the top of the dihedral at a good stance.
The guidebook suggests staying on the right side of the bolt line, there are good features here - it's also interesting though on the left of the bolts and maybe a number grade harder.
There is a fourth class ramp from which you could access the chains.
Eds. this is a combination of submissions.
The 2 bolt anchor with chains is tucked in just over the lip at the top. The chains are thin, so plan on a final run up the slab to clean the anchor. You can TR Ring of Power, 5.4 or 5.6 off the same anchors.
Note, small rattlesnakes with buzzing rattles may reside below this route.
The approach to the left via a slot and a high step onto a slab will require a spot for the kids.
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