The Swiftness 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10- [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | mschlocker on Nov 5, 2006 |
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Climber on Halcyon to left of The Swiftness.
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Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>
- Thanks to ACSD for providing the following updates!
- Poway Crag's Ramona Wall and Miller Time Wall have a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August 31st annually dur to nesting raptors
- Glen Cliff has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring
- Mt Gower also has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring
- In recent years, Gower has been home to seasonally nesting raptors. To avoid human disturbance of nesting activities, advisories may be in effect from around December through August. Check the ACSD and CNF websites for details.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Hand crack on the right side of Triton Tower. 30' of jamming and thin hands leads to a 20' traverse up and left that eventually leads to easier ground. Most of the climbing is vertical so have some energy to climb this somewhat pumpy route. Nice jams in a parallel crack and some stuff on the face for your feet and hands too. After the traverse, finish up and right at the end of the traverse on an easy ridge following 2 bolts to a bolted anchor.
This is definitely a classic crack but rarely gets done due to having to haul gear up the trail pretty much for this climb alone.
Location Start at the base of Halcyon. This is just right of the Triton Tower roof (base of the tower). The crack is the obvious vertical hand crack that eventually traverses left.
Protection Cams, small to medium. Mostly #.5 to #1 Camalots. A yellow alien or two may be useful. Extra .75 Camalots will not go unused. The climb takes gear very well anywhere, and has good but pumpy stances. Bring a couple of quickdraws for the last section to the anchor.
Great picture of El Cajon by Pete!
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On the final traverse to the anchors.
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thin hands to slightly wide hands
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| Comments on The Swiftness |
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By Adam Kimmerly
Nov 27, 2006
rating: 5.10a
| I must say I was less than elated about this route. The crack looks fantastic from the bottom, and it is. But each jam fights the slick, bat urine covered walls of the crack to stay in place. The stench of ammonia was aweful when I climbed it. If not for that, the route is a nice, pumpy, short, tight-hands crack. The recommended gear is accurate and definitely worth hauling up for this and other gear routes in the area. Don't be fooled - there are more routes on this crag that require gear, including one that is longer and better than this. Were it not for the excessive bat excrement, this crack would deserve 3 stars out of 4. |
By Rob A
Dec 8, 2006
rating: 5.10a
| A must do for the new 5.10 trad leader. Short, pumpy, great gear, good jams with plenty of face features for the feet, and yes it's full of crap near the bottom. |
By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Dec 13, 2006
| It's actually bird crap at the base. These suckers live (by the hundreds) in the crack where the traverse splits off. I can't imagine how they all fit in there! One day I was out there and they all came out of the crack and just started circling us at the belay. It was like the movie "The Birds". Never got any crap on my hands, maybe depends on time of year, but I was worried about getting my hands pecked to death. Luckily no problem with that either. |
By Adam Kimmerly
May 15, 2007
rating: 5.10a
| There were definitely bats in there too (along with the birds, I guess). As the sun set, we watched them pour out of the crack by the hundreds! |
By Jesse Davidson
From: san diego, ca
Jun 24, 2007
rating: 5.10a/b
| yes, I too can add to the consensus that this crack is great but smells like piss. The sound of hundreds of birds or bats or whatever screeching at me to quit jamming my hands into their house was something to behold. One hangdod, just below the big hueco. Repeated cleanly on tr though, I'm just not a fast gear placer yet. |
By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Oct 15, 2007
| Just climbed it w/ Jesse D mid October a day after the rain. No bird crap anywhere (or birds), it was amazing. I guess climb it in fall after it rains. We also climbed Spitfire the same day. While Spitfire is longer, it is less aesthetically clean and less sustained than The Swiftness since it has a few good rest stances and The Swiftness has none really. Spitfire is more adventerous though with worse protection in the beginning and more plants to go around. Plus you can't see the whole climb from the bottom which makes it more exciting.
Still 4 of 4 stars for The Swiftness from me after my third time on it. It's all about what you're looking for. |
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