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The Sweet and the Savage
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3 from 3 votes
Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Stephen King, Matt Thom |
Page Views: | 595 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Cameron Fraser on Apr 29, 2013 |
Admins: | Cameron Fraser, Liz |
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Description
The unmissable corner/ undercling roof traverse near the start of the point. Combining both pitches into one results in terrible rope drag.
Pitch 1 (18/5.10a)
Start up the corner, then follow the crack up and to the left moving through two undercling traverse sections. After this head straight up for two meters and mantle onto ledge for a trad belay. Well protected.
Pitch 2 (16/5.8)
A short pitch to prevent rope drag. Straight up following the crack to bolted belay.
The guidebook suggests you rap from here, but if you feel like it there is a short bolted line (15/5.7+) heading further up the cliff (the second pitch of All Ausi Adventures).
Pitch 1 (18/5.10a)
Start up the corner, then follow the crack up and to the left moving through two undercling traverse sections. After this head straight up for two meters and mantle onto ledge for a trad belay. Well protected.
Pitch 2 (16/5.8)
A short pitch to prevent rope drag. Straight up following the crack to bolted belay.
The guidebook suggests you rap from here, but if you feel like it there is a short bolted line (15/5.7+) heading further up the cliff (the second pitch of All Ausi Adventures).
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