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Pat and Jack Pinnacle
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The Super Slacker Highway 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 8 pitches, 600'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dan McDevitt, Gabriel Mange, Bryan Law. January 2011.
Page Views: 423
Submitted By: Gargano on Jan 21, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: The Super Slacker Highway Topo.

Thanks to Susan...

Description 

The Super Slacker Highway offers a fun, clean, and moderate multi-pitch outing to the unique summits of both Pat and Jack Pinnacles. The route ascends a wide range of features including perfect hands, balancey face, steep jugs, fingers and chimneys. Short pitches, well-protected crux climbing and comfortable belay ledges make the route very reasonable. An excellent option for getting off the deck on a cool day.

P1: Choose your own adventure. Climb either Knob Job (5.10b) or Nurdle (5.8) to a bolted anchor. 30m.

P2: Knobs above the belay lead to a crack. Protect here and move left onto the face. Good climbing past a variety of face features leads to a bolted anchor. 5.9. 20m.

P3: "The Boulder Problem". Climb up and right to the base of a short face. Thin knobs and edges quickly lead to a sloping mantle. Press it out and you're at a bolted anchor. A few draws/slings are all you need for this pitch. 5.10a. 10m.

Note: From the anchor at the top of P3 you'll need to move the belay 10m to a tree at the base of the next pitch. Link this with P3.

P4: Balance through a knobby face to get established at the base of a right-facing finger crack. Jam and stem your way up the toothy crack until possible to pull onto the slab to the left. Delicate face moves lead past a bolt and up into the overhanging sea of juggy plates and knobs. Crank through this steep, but mellow, section to a bolted-anchor. Semi-hanging belay. 5.10a. 30m.

P5: "Proud Headwall". A steep pull gets you established on the beautiful knobbed face. Fun moves lead up and right to the base of the "Big Fin". Squeeze in and shimmy through the fin to a bolted anchor. 5.10a. 25m.

P6: Step right on sloping feet and thin edges. Latch the lip and press through. A short section of off-balance fingers leads to a bolted anchor on a huge ledge. 5.10a. 15m.

The plush ledge at the top of P6 puts you in a unique position beneath the Pat and Jack Pinnacles. Each pinnacle is summited via a single pitch off of the ledge. You can either climb, lower and TR each or summit and rap each.

The pitches to both of the summits climb on the north face (back side) of the pinnacles.

Both pitches share a start. Two options:
a.) Direct Start. Boulder through the short block above the bolted anchor. 5.11a.
b.) Traverse left to the notch between the pinnacles and climb to the ledge. 5.8.

P7: Pat Pinnacle. After selecting a start from the above options, move left to the notch between the two pinnacles. Three-dimensional stemming and chimney moves lead to a bolted face on the north side of Pat Pinnacle. Step across onto the sloping face and climb to the summit. Bolted anchor. 5.9. 15m.

P8: Jack Pinnacle. After selecting a start, traverse right to the notch between Jack Pinnacle and the main wall. A nice section of hands and fingers leads to a bolt-protected chimney that opens to wide-stems near the summit of the pinnacle. Pull onto the summit. Bolted anchor. 5.9. 20m.


Location 

The route ascends Pat and Jack Pinnacles. Begin on either Knob Job or Nurdle.

Descent:

Rap the route with a single 70m rope. While each pitch is equipped for rappel, the route is easily descended via three 35m raps and one 30m rap.

R1: P8 to P5. 35m.

R2: P5 to P3. 35m.

Descend fixed line to bolted anchor at the top of P3 "The Boulder Problem".

R3: P3 to P1. 35m.

R4: P1 to ground. 30m.

See topo for individual pitch rap lengths.


Protection 

Doubles to 3.5". All anchors are equipped with bolts and chains.



Comments on The Super Slacker Highway Add Comment
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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 30, 2014

Nice route description and just as I remembered it. Great exposure, terrific moves and the last pitch is super fun! Thanks Dan for another great addition @ Pat & Jack!

By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Feb 4, 2014

Fun climbing to a great summit.

Great line, perhaps overbolted in places. The bolt encountered on the face when moving left after the toothy finger crack (p5?), as an example, sits next to a perfect cam placement.

Feel that .10a might be a sandbag on the mantle before the summit block pitches, but it's not a showstopper.

Quality hardware throughout. At the summit you can see the old anchors, then whisper thanks to the FA'ists for the new rap pieces!