This small sunny crag lies up on the hill North of the road and faces strongly south, collecting sun in spring and fall on all climbs at least part of the day and on the main face all day. Although the crag is hard to spot from the road, from the belay at the base and upward, sun drenches the crag, perhaps its most inviting attribute.
The rock is generally very good, but on the Eastern side, lichen still covers some of the rock. The warm-up climbs there (the 5.9 and 5.10c) are reasonable at present but would improve more with additional travel or cleaning.
The climbing here is generally technical, small edging, off-angled holds and well protected. Even the bolted climbs here require some gear to protect well though, so take a light rack.
The best climb at this crag is likely A.O.D.
, a 5.11 flake and crack.
To get to this crag, drive up to the upper Saint Vrain 8.3 miles to a long gravel turn off/parking area on the left (south) side of the road on a straight-away. Park at the near end of this and look across the road and back East to a crag peeking out from between some trees. Head back East on the road for perhaps 50 to 100 yards to a point below the crag. Strike uphill on a grassy hillside, dodging cacti here and there for a few hundred yards to the crag base. Good trail shoes are a plus. No poison ivy was seen on this author's visit to the crag.
The total approach time is 5-10 minutes.
Climbing Season For the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon area.
Weather station 8.9 miles from here
3 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For The Sundrop
A.O.D. 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c CO
: ... : The Sundrop
Climb up through blocks and corners with occasional protection on moderate terrain (5.7) to reach lighter rock, which is very solid. Place a 0.5- 0.75 cam and then head up to the first bolt. Climb up and clip bolts through increasingly difficult terrain, reaching a thin and slightly off balance crux before lay-backing up pumpy a right-facing flake (optional large nut or small hex) to a ledge with a fixed anchor. Clip and belay or rap....[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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