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A very cool route!
Get ready to feel the burn! An overhung route, named after a ritual meant to make you strong, this route can get sadistic if you don't have Popeye's forearms and the muscle shirt you bought didn't actually come with any real muscles. Located on the right side of The Prow (can be seen from the trail) run up a dirt ramp and park yourself in a Land of the Lost sort of cave. The route has a fun, bouldery start on red rock which turns into a wicked pump-fest when it turns blonde. Struggle your ass up the killer pockets to a "Thank you Jesus!" huge cave-like hold. Rest your weary ass for a bit and go for the anchors. If you're man or woman enough, and your arms haven't fallen off yet,you can keep going to a second set of anchors up some ten plusish kind of terrain. The view is spectacular and you've placed a toprope for a freakishly fun 5.12 just to the left.
NOTICE! In the late spring and most of the summertime, this route sometimes becomes a habitat for nesting birds. And since you tend to get cooked and overly baked at The Sunshine Wall we recommend you just skip this route until the baby birds have flown away in September.
Great winter route! Great early spring route! Get there early in the morning to grab the most sun and beat the crowds. Despite the fact it goes into the shade around noon, you can climb this thing naked in January and be quite comfortable...than is, unless you get your sack squeezed in your legloops, then it gets uncomfortable. I'd suggest at least a pair of shorts for the send.
Sunshine Wall...The Prow...to the right...unmistakeble with the bird's nest hole towards the top of the route. The route to the right of The Sundance is an excellent 5.11.
Bring about a dozen quickdraws just in case you want to keep going past the first set of closed anchors. The second set of anchors are chain with a metal loop so in either case you'll need a couple of draws for the anchors. Be wary of the ride you might take if you blow the clip on the fourth bolt.
The Sundance, 5.10b Starts in a crack on the right...
By Harrison Teuber
From: Black Hills, SD
Oct 1, 2014
There is a volleyball size wasps nest between bolts 5 and 6, about an arms length to the right of the bolt line. Its not really near any of the holds, just adds some nice flavor to the crux.
By Chris treggE
From: Madison, WI
Sep 18, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
I would second the comment about it's possible to take a long ride on this route. I watched one of my partners pump out, miss the clip, and whip. It's a long, clean ride, that just might pull your belayer off the ledge and leave both of you swinging and swinging.
Super route. If you're at Sunshine this is a must do.