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The Stump
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Choss-o-licious 
Goldfinger 

The Stump 


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Elevation: 6,600'
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Administrators: Jared LaVacque, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Jun 12, 2007

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Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!


The Stump is the short peak to the left that is si...

Description 

The Stump located just to the southwest of the Wisdom Tooth is technically part of the Wisdom Tooth, but it does have it's own summit. It stands about 1800' high off the glacier and was named in honor of Mugs Stump after his death in 1992. Despite this peaks small size it has a lot to offer with lots of good quality rock and routes of all sizes and difficulties. From multi-pitch classics like Goldfinger to one pitch crag routes that remain undocumented, there is something for everyone.


Getting There 

This is another peak with a very easy approach making it ideal for an easy day of craging. From the Ruth Gorge head north or south depending on where your camping, straight toward the Stump on the east side of the Gorge. Navigate a relatively easy section of crevasses and your there.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Stump:
Goldfinger   5.11a     Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 2000 feet, Grade IV   
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Featured Route For The Stump
A shot of the crux pitch, photo by Georg.

Goldfinger 5.11a  AK : Denali National Park : ... : The Stump
This route is easy to underestimate. While on the glacier, the Stump appears tiny next to all of the giants that surround it. The route being “only” 12 pitches long, I thought that this thing was going to be a quick romp up the granite. In addition, in preparation for this route, one of my partners and I climbed several routes in Red Rock of similar length, one of which had a similarly difficult crux pitch. I know what you are going to say, Red Rock is softly graded, and that anyone who clim...[more]   Browse More Classics in AK