Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Midnight Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
After Midnight 
Caboose, The 
Cage, The 
Caged Bird of Pray 
Cirque du Soleil 
Crack a Smile 
Deus Ex Machina 
Dyno Mart 
Engine, The 
Flake Out 
Geminae Cracks 
Grande Finale 
Hack a Drone 
Hammer Down 
Jet Stream 
Karma Chameleon 
Meltdown 
Midnight Cowboy 
Midnight Express 
Pirate Radar 
Rycessica 
Stroke of Midnight, The 
Union with Earth 
Voila 
Weather Report 

The Stroke of Midnight 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Dan Hare & Matt Fetbrod, 2002
Page Views: 449
Submitted By: david goldstein on Sep 29, 2006
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
After TR'ing the roof from the second bolt, Luke i...

Description 

A two move wonder, but not bad. The crux is getting from the ground to the 2nd bolt, mantling at the lip of an overhang; if you blow this move you could deck, fall into the belayer or at least grate past the edge of the overhang, so preclipping the second bolt might be advised, perhaps while descending Weather Report. The start/crux is pretty engaging but the rest of the pitch is ho-hum.


Location 

At a blank bulge/roof ~5m right of After Midnight.


Protection 

9 bolts.



Photos of The Stroke of Midnight Slideshow Add Photo
Mike B pulling the crux on Stroke of Midnight.
BETA PHOTO: Mike B pulling the crux on Stroke of Midnight.
There are some rounded holds, here, but it's easier to move right on more positive edges.
There are some rounded holds, here, but it's easie...
Higher up it gets steep. You pull left into a rounded trough. Some jams and laybacks get you to the anchors.
Higher up it gets steep. You pull left into a roun...
A high step leads to better holds and some runout but very easy low angle climbing.
A high step leads to better holds and some runout ...
Mark, standing at bottom of route.
BETA PHOTO: Mark, standing at bottom of route.
Comments on The Stroke of Midnight Add Comment
Show which comments
By brent pohlmann
From: San Francisco, CA
Oct 16, 2006

What a piece of crap...along with its 5.9 brother to the right.

By Brian Adzima
From: the Paris of Appalachia
Apr 16, 2007

Don't bother.

By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 25, 2007

I thought this was pretty good. I did the roof with a TR from the second bolt. The moves left and then over the bulge were pretty hard and spooky. I was gripped making the third clip--on the edge of tipping out. After the bulge easy climbing lead to a steep 8 or 9 finish up a rounded crack/trough feature with a hand jam or two.

By Brent Apgar
From: Out of the Loop
Apr 11, 2010

The start to the route definitely feels forced and is going to feel harder for the shorter folks even using the cheater blocks underneath the roof. I thought that the rest of the climbing was worthwhile.