The Strike 5.12
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| Type: | Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12 [details] |
| FA: | RMWright, Summer 2012 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | Typical of Dumont |
| Submitted By: | Richard M. Wright on Jul 25, 2012 |
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BETA PHOTO: The Strike, draws in place. Line continues above t...
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Description Natural History teaches that when a big cat makes a kill it is often via a powerful, accurate, focused strike to back of the neck, severing the cervical spinal cord. This seems about right for the crux sequence on The Strike.
The Strike begins on the left overhang. Power up to a rail system and swim out right to the arete. The first crux comes in standing up at clip four. Moving past clip five is the technical crux and entails a number of tricky and powerful moves. The crux ends when you stand above clip six. Bolts above guide the rope away from snags on the ledge.
Location This is the left of three routes on the block.
Protection Eight draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jul 25, 2012
| This route has a number of cool features that stack up to a really good route. Moving past clip five entails a powerful slap off a small but positive crimp. It's probably fair to call the inverted sloper that one slaps for "disappointing". Catching it is a long way from the end of the difficulties, which entail several more similar slaps to rounded holds and a few tricky transitions in body position. |
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Aug 4, 2012
| 08/03/2012: after Dr. ABS and I came up for clean RP burn, I'm tempted to rename this route "Black Nemesis" for the 12 hard inches that just evicted me. I thought it was fully dialed but got spanked at the inverted slap. Still, really cool climbing with a very technical crux. |
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