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|Administrators:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)|
|Submitted By:||J. Thompson on Mar 17, 2007|
|2016 Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>|
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By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Sep 26, 2015
Ed Fogels and I made the first attempt on the central leaning "crack" that ends in a blank headwall.
We were returning to Colorado after spending a month in Yosemite. We bought a box of Red Head bolts in St George. I only had a handful of drill bits left over from the previous spring's bolting on the Halucinogen Wall and Popes Nose. Winter was coming and we only had hammocks. But we had one ace.
An ancient man in Springdale helped us out. He ignored our long hair and lack of money. With great effort due to his condition, he kindly ground our cliff-hangers into 1/4" bat hooks. As if to explain his unusually decrepit physical state, he told us that a lot of people got cancer after the St George area was blanketed by nuclear test fallout.
Ranger Dick, the head of the park, was very concerned and watched us every day as we fixed ropes on the approach, ferried loads, and worked on the first pitch. He was wise to the overhanging blankness and impossibility of either a rescue or retreat.
The first bolt I placed broke. I finished the pitch anyway and came down off two gently torqued bolts. We knew we need better gear and left.