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 ADVANCED
Bridge Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Touch of Tango T 
Angel's Arete T,TR 
Are You An Idiot? T 
Are You Experienced? T 
Blunder and Frightening T,TR 
Butterbeans T 
Chockstone T,TR 
Dogfight T 
Dresden Corner T 
Easily Flakey T,TR 
Englishman's Crack T 
Gag Reflex T 
Handsome and Well-Hung T 
High Times T 
Horton's Tree T 
International Incident T 
Jaws T,TR 
Labor Day T 
Layback T 
Let the Wind Blow S 
Let's Get Physical T 
Marionette T,TR 
Mayfly T 
Mean Old Mr. Gravity S 
Mega Magic S 
Monkey See, Monkey Do T,TR 
Penalty Situation T,TR 
Raptured T 
Strategem, The S 
Strech Armstrong (a.k.a. Ruptured) S 
Team Machine S 
Tree Route, The T,TR 
Underfling T 
Zag T,TR 

The Strategem 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Rick Thompson, Carl Samples, Stuart Pregnall 1988
Page Views: 460
Submitted By: Joel Longo on Jun 27, 2010

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Cooper Varney crushing old school style.

Description 

As the name implies, you need a little strategy to decipher this gem of a route. Almost immediately you're faced with a thought provoking less than vertical face, lightly spattered with slopey crimps, some better than others. After that it's not over. Work up to where the wall starts to overhang and the pump clock starts. Race for the chains going a little out of your way after the last bolt.


Location 

To the right from the stairs around a few corners. After Pirouette and before The Midas Touch. If you reach the Rock Shelter Cave you've gone too far.


Protection 

This route was rebolted summer of 2010. The pin was replaced with a bolt making it a total of 6 bolts and anchors.



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By Alan Howell
May 8, 2012

I must be reading this route wrong as this thing has spit me off every single time. I consider myself a decent face climber but you need steel hooks for fingers for this route. I would love to see someone actually do this route as I have never seen it sent. I question the grade as it seems more like 12+. Going for another attempt in a couple weeks so if you hear loud cussing...