|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 300'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]|
|FA:||Bradley White Oct. 2012|
|Submitted By:||bradley white on Oct 21, 2012|
|Comments on The Stones||Add Comment|
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From: New Hampshire
Oct 22, 2012
"car size boulders or really big chock stones" hah! I guess it's all frame of reference, right?
Minus the wetness, your description sounds like a really fun outing. Is the east summit open like the top of the main hiking trail? I'm curious if this is the rock you can see when driving towards Rattlesnake from the east (down Buffalo Road).
By bradley white
Oct 26, 2012
hi, Jeffery. These are three axle size, chock stones at the top east side. Climbing the oak trees on the Stones was a bitch! The woods on the east side ledges is open like main cliff and not steep. Almost all old oak and not burnt. This climb can be seen slightly from Buffalo Rd. near the bridge. It is lower than all the other ledges on the summit area and is the first open area to see. It also appears separated from the ledges west of it. Trees block much of the view. The impenetrable ceiling is dark underneath creating a horizontal line where the roof gets light. This can be seen always from Route 25 and Stinson Lake Rd. intersection near the closed restaurants. There is one tree covered in yellow leaves in the valley that is blocking the best view.
Nevermind the Stones, Jack O'Lantern ceiling (same ceiling) does have a break in it on the left side. The moves up would be a open hand jam that would have to support your entire weight as you changed your body angle from vertical no feet to horizontal extending your whole body to get your feet side ways on the opposite side of the break. Precarious position, would become being on a tilt down and sideways (the fall here will drop you onto rocks below). That would only be the beginning of it. From this crazy position some way your left hand would have to extend to a thin finger crack to jam and again put most of your weight onto the left arm to straighten yourself out again. Then it would be over. I have not seen anyone with this much one arm strength including the Olympics. That's the theory on how to get through this break free. On aid it would be not be hard at all, the cam gear is solid.
I won't bother with it. I just walk off right satisfied the mountain has such a climb to the forest below the eastern summit. I don't expect anyone to climb anything up here. Mountaineering folks go to Mt. Washington, not Rattlesnake.
I was just talking about Utopia today with a friend. I spoke about how mountaineering is waning. There is no more enthusiasm for it nowadays. I've been going up here for years by myself. I know the place like the back of my hand now. There's ice up here and I would like to get on it this winter. Probably the same way I done the rock routes, solo. Nothing grand for ice. I think mostly NIE 1-2 with a 3 pillar here or there. It will require mountaineering. I do mountaineering. Sport, traditional off road are not mountaineering. To mountaineer you got to climb a mountain or at least try to summit.