|Utopia Ledges (True Summit Ledges)
Start on rock to approach to Chock Stones up left. Climb awkwardly on dirt and rock left and up to stones (crux) to move up like the stones are a chimney. Go up the indented curvature of the cliff now that is sort of like a dike or gully but is neither because it is chocks stones and grasses then chock stones and forest and the chock stones to bulwark right. The mystery, was what's above this? It is being an impasse. The bulwark can be avoided left before approaching it. The bulwark is covered in wet green moss except the right side is clear. The height of the bulwark is 5 ft on the right side and 7-10 ft on the left.
To get over this thing, I chose not doing the right side and climbed two oak trees on the left side at the same time strenuously. Got high enough up the trees to stem over to get left foot high up up and reach for a tree. Made it onto the short dirt slope to enter the bowl of car size boulders or really big chock stones. There are, about 30-40 feet of them with many choices to proceed. The volcano like rim of it can be ascended. I went up to the direct finish that was too wet. Its very geometric and has sharp jagged edges. All of the top is a steeply overhanging short ceiling with extreme blind sided problems to solve to get over it. Most of the rock here is jagged also, other than the rim.
I checked things out before I left. All slabs below lead to the rim bulwark and its defenses are weakened on the east side by cracks and a giant long fissure. Two, maybe three slab approaches to the east side of the bulwark rim.
Awesome geology. I escaped right and up below the ceiling. 300 ft higher is the pyramid shaped, east summit.
300 ft east or right of the base of the height of land where the boulder field left goes to most of the climbs. Starts on rock left of the large slab right. Across and up from here left is the start of 'Ora the Explorer'.
very light rack, rock and tree slings.
|By Jeffrey LeCours|
From: New Hampshire
Oct 22, 2012
"car size boulders or really big chock stones" hah! I guess it's all frame of reference, right?
Minus the wetness, your description sounds like a really fun outing. Is the east summit open like the top of the main hiking trail? I'm curious if this is the rock you can see when driving towards Rattlesnake from the east (down Buffalo Road).
|By bradley white|
Oct 26, 2012
hi, Jeffery. These are three axle size, chock stones at the top east side. Climbing the oak trees on the Stones was a bitch! The woods on the east side ledges is open like main cliff and not steep. Almost all old oak and not burnt. This climb can be seen slightly from Buffalo Rd. near the bridge. It is lower than all the other ledges on the summit area and is the first open area to see. It also appears separated from the ledges west of it. Trees block much of the view. The impenetrable ceiling is dark underneath creating a horizontal line where the roof gets light. This can be seen always from Route 25 and Stinson Lake Rd. intersection near the closed restaurants. There is one tree covered in yellow leaves in the valley that is blocking the best view.
Nevermind the Stones, Jack O'Lantern ceiling (same ceiling) does have a break in it on the left side. The moves up would be a open hand jam that would have to support your entire weight as you changed your body angle from vertical no feet to horizontal extending your whole body to get your feet side ways on the opposite side of the break. Precarious position, would become being on a tilt down and sideways (the fall here will drop you onto rocks below). That would only be the beginning of it. From this crazy position some way your left hand would have to extend to a thin finger crack to jam and again put most of your weight onto the left arm to straighten yourself out again. Then it would be over. I have not seen anyone with this much one arm strength including the Olympics. That's the theory on how to get through this break free. On aid it would be not be hard at all, the cam gear is solid.
I won't bother with it. I just walk off right satisfied the mountain has such a climb to the forest below the eastern summit. I don't expect anyone to climb anything up here. Mountaineering folks go to Mt. Washington, not Rattlesnake.
I was just talking about Utopia today with a friend. I spoke about how mountaineering is waning. There is no more enthusiasm for it nowadays. I've been going up here for years by myself. I know the place like the back of my hand now. There's ice up here and I would like to get on it this winter. Probably the same way I done the rock routes, solo. Nothing grand for ice. I think mostly NIE 1-2 with a 3 pillar here or there. It will require mountaineering. I do mountaineering. Sport, traditional off road are not mountaineering. To mountaineer you got to climb a mountain or at least try to summit.