The Wasp/The Sting
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BETA PHOTO: Topo of the Sting/Wasp linkup.
The first pitch [5.10] can be done as its own climb. It consists of big, overhanging, reachy moves out the cave left of the platform. The crux is pulling the lip of the cave [Note: the 5.10 moves can be avoided via a 5.8 lieback variation at the leftmost of the cave (The Wasp)]. Above the crux, the angle kicks back and easy climbing follows a system of huecos upward. The huecos then disappear and although the climbing remains easy, protection becomes difficult [R]. Continue upward until a crack opens up, allowing for solid pro. Belay at either of two trees, or construct a belay below the roof above. The second pitch consists of heading to the above mentioned roof and surmounting it via one of three cracks. The leftmost is 5.9, the middle is a bit easier, and the rightmost is the easiest. Walk off through the main descent gully, or rap.
The route begins in the back of the obvious cafe left of the platform. Descend via the main descent gully.
This route is 100% bolt free (long may it be that way). To protect the crux [the cave start], sling the obvious horn. A fall at the lip of the cave can be caught by this horn (I've seen it happen), but a number 1 and/or 2 Camalot can keep you feeling safe.
If doing The Wasp,a number 3 camalot protects the steep start, and a number 4 fits perfectly behind the upper flake.
After the huecos above the cave, the pro goes from thin to none. Small stoppers are the name of the game. Once the crack opens up again, protection is elementary. The roof moves at the top of the climb can be safely protected by numbers 1 and 2 Camalots.
|Comments on The Wasp/The Sting
|By Richard Shore|
May 12, 2011
rating: 5.10+ R
Heady lead. The R rating is very real; mostly at the start in my opinion. You are committed into the crux with the slung horn as the only pro that could (maybe) stop a fall. I placed a 2 c4 in a crack high up and left, but the rock was so sandy and poor that I don't think it would have held body weight. As as I got towards the lip of the cave, I looked down and saw the sling fall off the horn. FML. Felt like i was free-soloing with a rope. As I was clipping into the anchor I was stung by a bee - how fitting.
If you opt to do just the cave section and lower off, consider bringing a knife and a good length of natural-colored webbing to replace the aging slings.
|By andy patterson|
From: Santa Barbara, CA
May 12, 2011
Way to get out there and tick off those old lines, Richard!