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This route is located directly below ROTC. Do to some confusion in the older Leavenworth Rock guidebook people frequently get on this thinking it is the 10b approach to ROTC, that I believe that is the right most of these two routes. At 11b this is no one move wonder but an endurance crux despite a sit down ledge at the midpoint.
Its best to do a short pitch to the base of the corner and belay at the tree. From here continue up the corner, much harder than it looks, it felt like I was using every trick in the book. Hands, fists, stemming, chimney technique, I switched the side of the corner my back was on at least 3 times. If you thought this pitch was going to be 10b then your expecting crack above to be a bomber hand crack. Instead you get a slightly right trending 0.75 camalot crack. You can put your left toe in the crack but your right foot has to make use of flexing lichen covered flakes...this crack takes you to the sit down ledge.
Above the ledge grunt up an offwidth for 15ft or so feet and then tackle a hand/layback crack that would be much easier if it wasn't for all the climbing below.
I had gear to 3.5 camalot but I would not have complained if I had a #4 for the ow.
|By Steve Wolford|
Jul 14, 2011
We always called this climb 10b, so not sure how it got to be a 11b. It is defintely physical but the jams are all there.
From: San Diego, CA
Jul 15, 2011
BOLD: The guidebook lists this as 10b-
sandbag or not this thing will get you flash pumped if you don't typically warm up on 5.11
|By geoff georges|
From: Seattle, Wa.
May 19, 2014
The 2010 book says 10b for this and the right crack ( Wasp) is 10a.