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Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
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Son of a Mother T,S 
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Sting, The T 
Sunburst Arete T 

The Sting 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Geoff Smith, Gary Allan, Dave Hough, 8/75
Page Views: 2,929
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Oct 28, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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Worth exiting the traverse near the start of The S...
  • Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
  • Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is a stellar route! The Sting climbs an independent line immediately to the left of the beginning hand crack of Gamesmanship.

    The climber has a choice to either begin the first 6 feet of Gamesmanship and step to the left trending crack of the Sting, or alternately and possibly a little harder, one can begin on small crimps directly below the beginning of the left-angling crack. Despite the chosen launching off point, you will encounter a tricky traverse followed by mitt-swallowing jams up a tremendous crack. You'll encounter a very brief off-hands section; however, a couple of #3 Camalots can help ease off-width-itis.

    The route ends on the Sting Traverse Ledge at a bolted anchor threaded with some webbing and quick links. (Note: This anchor should be replaced!)


    Location 

    100 feet to the right of the Positive Thinking clearing is a pair of cracks. The Sting is the lefthand crack that traverses out to the left.


    Protection 

    A full rack with doubles from green to yellow Camalot sizes. An assortment of smaller gear with some RPs is welcomed.



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    By Dan G0D5H411
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Oct 12, 2009
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    For an added bit of fun climbing, don't traverse left to the ledge/anchors. Keep heading up and traverse right across the face towards Gamesmanship, passing a flake with a fixed stopper. Finish on the last 20 feet of gamesmanship. We used a 70m rope to rap off the first pitch of Gamesmanship, but not sure if that was neccessary or not.

    By Greg Kuchyt
    Aug 3, 2010
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    There is a 5.9 start variation a few feet to the left of the shared start with Gamesmanship. Make a couple bouldery moves up the face to a few incut buckets and gain the traverse. This is a good way to start the route if there is a party on P1 of Gamesmanship.

    By Eli Kramer
    From: Saratoga Springs, NY
    Aug 23, 2010
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    I also recommend the 5.9 start. Fun moves.

    By Simon Thompson
    From: New Paltz, NY
    Nov 24, 2011
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    The Sting and Gamesmanship are maybe the two best 5.8s I've climbed in the park and it's just SO convenient that they are right next to each other.