| j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Aria) - The Seasons (The Spring) |
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The Sting 5.11d
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| Type: | Trad |
| Consensus: | 5.11d [details] |
| FA: | Russ Clune, Dan McMillian and Russ Raffa, 1983 |
| Submitted By: | Jay Knower on Dec 18, 2006 |
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Getting set up for the boulder problem on The Stin...
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Area closures MORE INFO >>>
2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Locate the short, clean wall in an alcove to the right of the The Yellow Wall. The Sting climbs up a series of horizontals (what else?) in the middle of the wall.
The start holds a V3-ish boulder problem that is slightly spicy considering the lack of gear and the menacing boulder just to your left. Great gear can be found at the first horizontal. The good holds continue to the final boulder problem before the anchors. I was told that the beta is a full-on double dyno to the ledge, but I have reason to believe that this person hosed me on the beta, thus making me fall and laughing at me. A small crimp offers a static alternative to the ill-advised dyno.
After the bouldery start, The Sting is a well-protected, pumpy route that climbs more like a sport route given its big moves and relatively steep angle.
There is a nest of questionable fixed tat directly above the route; it is possible to climb Lisa to access it.
Protection Cams up to 3+ inches.
leading
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just before
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going
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going...
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GOING!
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gone!
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By Tim Schafstall
From: Newark, DE
Apr 24, 2008
rating: 5.11d
| Date for that first ascent is 1983. As one might guess from the description, this climb is harder for the vertically challenged. Most folks TR it after leading Lisa. |
By doze
From: Denver, CO
Apr 23, 2009
| In fact the first move is perfectly protectable with ballnutz #2 or #3 and blue and green BD C3. |
By Rui Ferreira
From: St Ismier (Grenoble), France
Jun 28, 2010
rating: 5.11d
| The initial climbing off the ground can be done statically to the left of the dyno variation. I remember placing a bomber nut on the initial seam (where climber has hands in beta photo). In all the pitch only took six pieces (I placed two cams on the horizontal before the exit crux - static version, using crimp up and left) and felt well protected all the way. The standard beta for the crux is to indeed throw for the final horizontal, but I have seem better success with the static variation. |
By Ian A. Wauchope
From: Kittery, ME
May 5, 2011
| The dyno to finish is good beta. I tried with the small crimps and it felt way harder. With a dyno you are going from jug ledge to jug ledge, but it does seem improbable as you hang below it. Great .75 placement at the move. |
By chris_vultaggio
Oct 5, 2011
| All-points-off dyno finish is definitely exciting, you can stitch up the gear as much as you want before making the move to the top.
Awesome route, great moves. |
By Dale Storti
From: Dobbs Ferry
Aug 27, 2012
| My first pieces were red C3 in opposition with the small purple BD nut. I protected the move shown in my picture with a green C3 slotted in where my left hand is. I used a dyno to finish. |
By Will Stat
Nov 8, 2012
rating: 5.12a
| I wouldn't recommend placing gear for the first dyno, you have a high chance of decking from so low anyway. A good spot or crash pad is a safe alternative. |
By David Stowe
Nov 10, 2012
| Bad advice about not placing gear at the start unless you are sure that you will hit that move. Blue alien is bomber and I have seen it catch more than one person there. With that good gear you will not deck unless you have a really bad belay. |
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