You will most likely want to stick clip the first bolt. Start by climbing up to reach the low overhang and then make good use of the arete that begins to form as you climb higher. Move through an easy section to reach the small overhang under the arete. Pull this small overhang using high steps and crimps to gain the face to the left of the arete (crux). Continue up the face until the arete ends and head toward the right side of the 3 ft wide overhang. Hand traverse under the overhang and pull it on the left side. The traverse is a bit heady and you probably don't want to fall here. (This traverse could be better protected by placing a cam if you are concerned). Easier climbing on the left side of the face above the overhang will take you to the anchors.
Start about 15 ft to the left of the start of Black and Tan and about 10 ft to the right of the start of Virgin Thing.
8 bolts, shuts. (If you choose to supplement the protection on the traverse, bring a #2 or #3 Camalot.)
|By Brad Leneis|
Jun 9, 2014
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
The crux moves are hard to read and difficult for 11d, but no-hands rests throughout the climb keep the overall grade in check. Big exposure up high. The high bolt above the hand traverse is not too hard to clip -- if you pull the roof first and get the heel hook, that is. Better yet, have your partner lead it first and hang a long-ish draw for you.