The Stern 5.8
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BETA PHOTO: "The Stern" starts on the left corner, then at 10 ...
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Description Starts with a boulder problem on the right face of the South arete. You generally follow this corner up, avoiding the main crack of Can Can. At the top, move back onto the South face into a seam.
The hard part is spotting the crimps - there is usually no chalk on this route.
Location The South end of the Frigate, to the left of Can Can.
Protection Some, mostly small nuts. It is also possible to use the Can-can crack in the mid-section.
Tom checked the gear before he led this variation....
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By jay.kalamazoo
From: kalamazoo, mi
Oct 31, 2009
| - There is very little protection on this climb. many nice exposed moves on a beautiful little rock. I bailed and did "can-can". |
By Trad Nanny
Apr 30, 2010
| Is there a direct version of this that goes straight up the face? |
By Alex A
Jul 16, 2010
| Yes there is Nick, it climbs the face left of the standard route, long reaches and some hard pulls,
PDH 5.12 PRETTY DAMN HARD |
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Sep 20, 2010
| There is also a 5.10/5.11 version that has gear. Tom M. led it Saturday. Follow the regular route up the right hand edge of the very smooth face, and then side-pull left instead of going around the corner to the right. |
By Trad Nanny
Sep 20, 2010
| Doug, how did you guys set TR on that variation? I use the anchor off The Pooper and then traversed over onto the face and got in a directional. Didn't see a better way. |
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Sep 21, 2010
| If you know what you are looking for, you can sorta see it in the photo:
I wrap webbing around the top block. Scramble up the back of the Frigate, stem the gap and mantel up, then wrap about 20 feet of webbing around the block you are on. I use two loops of webbing, because there are some sharp edges below, and actually some old webbing caught between the rock's teeth above that .12 variation.
FWIW, I think of these two variations as "Stern Stuff" and "Sterner Stuff". |
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