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Thor Peak
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Stemwinder, The T 

The Stemwinder 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 1000', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I ZA: 5 British: M 1c [details]
FA: William Rice, Robert Brinton, Glen Dawson 9/7/1936
Page Views: 372
Submitted By: Richard Shore on Jun 16, 2014

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Stemwinder photo overlay. photo credit: rhyang / ...


An "old school" (1936!) route which winds its way up the right-side of the huge south face of Thor Peak.

Traverse left on a ledge from the near the right-end of the south face to get to the start of the route. A 10' class 3-4 chimney must be overcome to get to P1. P1 is marked with a fixed piton and stopper right off the deck. Make the crux 5.4 chimney move and gain easier ground heading up and right. Many options exist between class 3 and easy 5th. Choose your own adventure. You are aiming for a small red pinnacle which is passed behind from the left. Some easy but very exposed slab moves out right lead to left-leaning ramps/cracks, marked with the occasional fixed angle-piton. Once on the ridge, head west up class 2 talus to the summit of Thor Peak. I descended the north-east slope into the N Fork of Lone Pine Creek. If you do this, you will need to carry all your stuff. There may be another descent nearer to the south face.


Right hand side of the south face. Follow the main Whitney Trail, but before you reach signs for Lone Pine Lake go cross-country up and right through forest and slabs to access the wall. 1.5-2 hours from the Portal.


Light alpine rack, some fixed pins.

Photos of The Stemwinder Slideshow Add Photo
Another photo overlay of Stemwinder, taken from Ou...
Another photo overlay of Stemwinder, taken from Ou...
Great views from up high on the Stemwinder route
Great views from up high on the Stemwinder route

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