||Trad, 5 pitches, 600', Grade III
|Original: || YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]|
|FA: ||Chris Righter with help from RP, BG, and JP|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Spring/Fall gets afternoon shade and can be climbed in summer|
|Page Views: ||1,036|
|Submitted By: ||chris righter on Jun 23, 2012|
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BG leading 2nd pitch.
This is a 5 pitch route located to the left of Echoes
. It is a combination of crack and face climbing protected by gear and bolts.
P1. 5.8. Start on Bantido, and when you get to the anchor, keep going up and to the right into dihedral that finishes on a ledge. There is an anchor on the top left of the dihedral that is used for rappelling on the way down. From the top of the ledge, you will need to 2nd class past some bushes up and left to a dihedral with twin cracks. You will want to put your anchor here. Once you get through all this BS, everything else will be worth it. 200 feet.
P2. 5.12. Start up the dihedral into a right-arching crack. Clip one bolt, then go straight up the crack system with 5.11- climbing to a ledge. Clip a bolt and then bust the 5.12- crux to another bolt, then trend right to a 2 bolt anchor on the ledge. (At the first bolt down low on the route, if you keep going right on the arching crack, there are some bolts that are not on the route. This is a 5.13 proj. So be sure to go up after the first bolt.) 150 feet.
P3. 5.12-. Face climb with bolts to steep twin cracks that has a 11+/12- crux, then continue up the crack system to a ledge. 100 feet.
P4. 5.10. Go up the right-facing dihedral to the left onto a ledge that has a one bolt anchor that is supplemented by a finger-sized cam. A short pitch has to be done to aleviate rope drag. 50 feet.
P5. 5.11+. Go up the left-facing dihedral to the top of a pillar, then go up to a small ledge with a dihedral. From here, you want clip a bolt and step right into another crack system that will take you all the way to the top that finishes on a giant ledge. 120 feet.
You can rap the route with a single 70m. If you have a 60m, you will need 2 ropes. The first rap is short, about 50 feet to a small ledge that is not on the route. After that, you are rappelling from the anchors on the route.
One green and red c3, singles #0.3-0.75 Camalots, doubles #1-3 Camalots, medium stoppers, 10 draws, and 5 runners.
By j wharton
Mar 20, 2015
This is a good route. I thought it was similar in difficulty to Echoes, perhaps just a touch easier. Doing Echoes and this route makes for a nice day of climbing. Who knew?...there is some good climbing in Unaweep after all!