The Star Factory  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Page Views:  338. Good page?    Administrator:  Tom Erickson Submitted By:  Byron Murray on Mar 20, 2008 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event

Byron Murray with Ocean background high on Antimat...

Description 

The Star Factory is unique in Australian climbing in that it has a large number of very high quality climbs from 21 (5.10d) to 30 (5.13c) on good granite that is highly featured with holds of all shapes and sizes, in addition to the more usual cracks. The Star Factory is now the best (hard) sport crag in Tassie and arguably one of the best in Australia. All the bolted sport climbs have double bolt belays at the top, from which it is advised to lower off as there is loose gravel above the top of the cliff. Winter days are the best, climbing in the sun with a nice southerly wind. You can climb in the summer but is best after about 2pm. The projects are all closed, but feel free to put in the blood sweet and tears to put your own up. Be careful on the slabs at the base of the routes. If you stuff up you probably won't wake up again. In the wet they are even worse! For more information check out www.thesarvo.com

Getting There 

Access is by following The Skyline Traverse from Sleepy Bay for 35 minutes until a distinct col is reached below the slabs leading up to Wombat Crags. From here head left and down, below a steep wall, then head south to above the cliff. There is a steep scramble at the far right hand side and abseil anchors above some of the right hand climbs. Access along the foot of the crag is straightforward except for a 30 meter section left from Ferret on a Leash, where it is necessary to rope up as the slabs below the wall shelve steeply to the sea over 70 meters below. For more information check out www.thesarvo.com

The Classics

Featured Route For The Star Factory

Antimatter 5.11b/c  International : Australia : ... : The Star Factory

A classic of the grade. Climb up flakes/jugs till about two meters from the roof. A tricky section leads into the roof. The suck up some air and crank around on big side pulls and glassy feet. Super warm up. For those whom it's not a warm up it could be 24....[more]   Browse More Classics in International