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Bird's Eye and Sporty Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bumping Uglies - open project 
Butolicious 
Nameles Corner 
Owl's Cliff Corner (The OCC), The 
Owliola 
Sporty Owl, The 
Talon 

The Sporty Owl 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Dave Quinn
Page Views: 285
Submitted By: M Sprague on Nov 3, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: Sporty Owl topo - three pitches of goodness, lots ...

Description 

This route is a great mix of climbing, from crack of all sizes to a little slab, overhanging stemming and finishing up with bolt protected face. The last two pitches clock in at about 11c. The first is easier, with the grade dependent on how you feel about the short off-width section, 5.9 or 10d

Pitch 1: Head up the obvious wide crack to a stance, then up to the first anchor. The start is a little awkward feeling, especially since Dave removed the first couple bolts, opting to traditionally protect it. Thankfully, it soon becomes more secure feeling and becomes a fun crack that yields to laying back, jamming, stemming, squirming. A handful of bolts are there to protect the offwidth section and above. The bottom of this pitch is often wet. As an alternative, you can do the 5.10a unnamed corner to the right, but head left at the "Y" to join this route.

Pitch 2: Climb up on to the short slab and head for the attractive arching finger crack in the overhanging dihedral above. Good stemming technique will get you through. Where some feel it is the crux, you can actually get a no hands rest with your back to the right wall if you look for it. There is a bolted anchor on the hanging slab above.

Pitch 3: The sport pitch - Follow the bolts up the final slab and across the steep face on good holds with a few fun big moves towards the corner on your left, and finish up to the final anchors. Rap the route. A single rope will get you down fine if you make use of the mid anchors.


Location 

From Butolicious follow the trail about 50 feet left to where it heads up to the cliff and splits right and left. Above you is the starting wide offset crack that is partially bolted where it is offwidth (see the picture)


Protection 

Normal NH trad rack and quickdraws, quite a few bolts. The anchors are boltd with good steel rings.



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