Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Burning Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Broken Sling T 
Burning Calves T 
Chorus Line T 
Grace Note S 
Happy Hands T 
Rod Serling Crack T 
Ruchert Motion S 
Spiderwand T 
Sportster, The S 
Steve Martin's Face T 
Stuck in Another Direction T,TR 
Wham Bam Thanks for the Jam T 
Will To Power, The T 

The Sportster 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Doug Reed (1990)
Page Views: 376
Submitted By: ---- on Apr 9, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]

Description 

The sportser gives you a glimpse into old school sport climbing. Dead vertical with relentless edging, this route features a nasty crux, with the opportunity to take some legitimate whippers. Itís hard to imagine that sport climbing originated from routes like this, and easy to understand why routes of this style have lost their popularity. Legend has it that "Old Master," Porter Jarrard, emerged briefly from the backwoods of West Virginia, for a repeat of the route in 2010. Hanging the draws on his first attempt, many years after his initial ascent, he was able to manage a redpoint. Donít expect any magic like this for yourself. This route, especially the crux, is likely to mow you down your first time up it.

The first three bolts of edging and high stepping on tiny crimps lead to a rest at the fourth bolt. Lay back some decent holds and step sequentially past the fourth bolt and then bear down on a couple more tiny crimps before reaching a resting position at the fifth bolt. The V7 technical crux awaits you. Do a frontal highstep onto a small edge at belly button height, grab a vertical potato chip sized side pull well above your head, and try to stand up as high as possible before your finger tips are severed off. Recklessly grab a right hand edge and get ready for more hideous crimps.

One more redpoint crux awaits you a bolt below the anchors. Donít blow it here because you'll never want to have to pull the technical crux again.

This route gets morning shade and also retains shade through the afternoon if leaves are on the tree. Give it a try. The route is actually quite enjoyable excluding the awkward crux, which will only appeal to masochists and those that are too strong to consider this a difficult move.


Location 

Look for a white face climb in the middle of the burning buttress, right where the buttress makes a 90 degree turn.


Protection 

8 bolts + anchor



Comments on The Sportster Add Comment
Show which comments
By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Apr 21, 2013

Whilst reading Fred's description, I feel as if I am there climbing on the route. Great job!