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 ADVANCED
The Spire

Select Route:
Blow Chow T,TR 
Center Slab S 
Dire Spire T,TR 
Full Nelson Reilly II T,S,TR 
Hire Spire T,TR 
Spire-A-Jyra T,S 

The Spire 


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Jim Cormier on Jul 25, 2001
Forecast:
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76° | 52°
Clear
76° | 55°
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77° | 56°
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72° | 52°
Chance of Rain
75° | 53°
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Description 

Approximately 6.0 miles up the canyon from Lyons. The Spire is across the river from a large pullout. Has several trad routes (which can be toproped) scramble to the top on the right side and scramble out to a nice alcove at the top. I may plan on adding a rap station/ top rope bolts at the top in the near future. Routes face north so this is nice for hot summer days. Rock is solid and has cracks that take protection well (You may need to garden a little). Only access issues might be crossing the river, and dodging poison ivy.


Getting There 

Drive up the canyon approximately 6 miles above Lyons, Pull out is on the left, and find the best place to cross river. The rock should be obvious.


Climbing Season


6 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',3],['5.9',1],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Spire:
Center Slab   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Classics in The Spire

Featured Route For The Spire
Brendan Sheehan about halfway up the route.

Center Slab 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  CO : Lyons : ... : The Spire
This is a new Alvino Pon route. "Center Slab" is a temporary name until the real name is known.The route goes up the slab between Full Nelson Reilly and Dire Spire.Begin at the big tree next to the rock. The first bolt is about 15' up and a little left of the tree.Climb up behind the tree, clip the first bolt, and work up left to a ledge with a ring bolt. Climb up the slab and a shallow crack. Continue up the slab to the right edge of the roof, pass the roof on the right, and angle up left to...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for The Spire
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News
Aug 18 New Feature: Season Charts   1
Aug 15 Wayne Crill's Fundraiser 0
Jul 9 Access Fund is hiring in Boulder 0
Jun 11 New Women's Speed Record on the Nose   6
Jun 7 A Tribute to Jeff Lowe   4
May 15 MP Mobile App: Partnered with Black Diamond and now Free   4

[ Read All News ]
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Comments on The Spire Add Comment
Show which comments
By pete cogan
Aug 20, 2003

No need to walk off The Spire: there are two new bolt lines and two new anchors at the top. One bolt line runs next to Dire Spire; the second is to the right of Blow Chow and heads up the arete.

By Brian Hansen
From: West of Boulder, CO
Aug 24, 2003

Does anyone have info on the two new bolted lines on the Spire?

By Anonymous Coward
Aug 25, 2003

Brian there are some comments on this on the main SSV page. Search for "brown" and read comments made by him and others.

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 25, 2003

Two new routes on The Spire (Right Arete and Center Slab) were added to the cb.com database today.

By John Worthen
Sep 4, 2006

We wanted to climb the Spire today, and it seems like several of the bolts have been cut. Does anyone know why?

By Toshia Leonhardt
From: Arvada, CO
Sep 9, 2008

Anyone know what the center slab is rated? It's not in the Lyon's area book, yet in fact many routes are not listed in SSV canyon yet and they are clearly not THAT new! What's up w/ a new guidebook?