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 ADVANCED
The Spire

Select Route:
Blow Chow T,TR 
Center Slab S 
Dire Spire T,TR 
Full Nelson Reilly II T,S,TR 
Hire Spire T,TR 
Spire-A-Jyra T,S 

The Spire  


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jim Cormier on Jul 25, 2001
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Description 

Approximately 6.0 miles up the canyon from Lyons. The Spire is across the river from a large pullout. Has several trad routes (which can be toproped) scramble to the top on the right side and scramble out to a nice alcove at the top. I may plan on adding a rap station/ top rope bolts at the top in the near future. Routes face north so this is nice for hot summer days. Rock is solid and has cracks that take protection well (You may need to garden a little). Only access issues might be crossing the river, and dodging poison ivy.

Getting There 

Drive up the canyon approximately 6 miles above Lyons, Pull out is on the left, and find the best place to cross river. The rock should be obvious.

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.9 miles from here

6 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',3],['5.9',1],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Spire:
Center Slab   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Classics in The Spire

Featured Route For The Spire
Tim Davis follows Full Nelson Reilly (5.10) on The...

Full Nelson Reilly II 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  CO : Lyons : ... : The Spire
Headed up to Spire Rock to climb Full Nelson Reilly. Just blasted up the middle of the face instead of the left side (as in Full Nelson proper). Climbing was fairly protectable (5.7/5.8). Joined Full Nelson Reilly at the roof. Clipped the single bolt and finished at the chains. Very fun steep crux, moving out from under the roof was exciting, the face had a real alpine feel....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for The Spire
Comments on The Spire Add Comment
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By pete cogan
Aug 20, 2003
No need to walk off The Spire: there are two new bolt lines and two new anchors at the top. One bolt line runs next to Dire Spire; the second is to the right of Blow Chow and heads up the arete.
By Brian Hansen
From: West of Boulder, CO
Aug 24, 2003
Does anyone have info on the two new bolted lines on the Spire?
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 25, 2003
Brian there are some comments on this on the main SSV page. Search for "brown" and read comments made by him and others.
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 25, 2003
Two new routes on The Spire (Right Arete and Center Slab) were added to the cb.com database today.
By John Worthen
Sep 4, 2006
We wanted to climb the Spire today, and it seems like several of the bolts have been cut. Does anyone know why?
By Toshia Leonhardt
From: Arvada, CO
Sep 9, 2008
Anyone know what the center slab is rated? It's not in the Lyon's area book, yet in fact many routes are not listed in SSV canyon yet and they are clearly not THAT new! What's up w/ a new guidebook?