Approximately 6.0 miles up the canyon from Lyons. The Spire is across the river from a large pullout. Has several trad routes (which can be toproped) scramble to the top on the right side and scramble out to a nice alcove at the top. I may plan on adding a rap station/ top rope bolts at the top in the near future. Routes face north so this is nice for hot summer days. Rock is solid and has cracks that take protection well (You may need to garden a little). Only access issues might be crossing the river, and dodging poison ivy.
Getting There
Drive up the canyon approximately 6 miles above Lyons, Pull out is on the left, and find the best place to cross river. The rock should be obvious.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Spire:
Headed up to Spire Rock to climb Full Nelson Reilly. Just blasted up the middle of the face instead of the left side (as in Full Nelson proper). Climbing was fairly protectable (5.7/5.8). Joined Full Nelson Reilly at the roof. Clipped the single bolt and finished at the chains. Very fun steep crux, moving out from under the roof was exciting, the face had a real alpine feel....[more]Browse More Classics in CO
No need to walk off The Spire: there are two new bolt lines and two new anchors at the top. One bolt line runs next to Dire Spire; the second is to the right of Blow Chow and heads up the arete.
By Brian Hansen From: West of Boulder, CO Aug 24, 2003
Does anyone have info on the two new bolted lines on the Spire?
Anyone know what the center slab is rated? It's not in the Lyon's area book, yet in fact many routes are not listed in SSV canyon yet and they are clearly not THAT new! What's up w/ a new guidebook?
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