Start on approach ice until at base of the pillar(sometimes not strong for screws). Climb pillar crux then go left into the corner. Higher up the corner it is the twisted crux(like a plastic kid park spiral slide). It begins near vertical then has a short vertical crescendo finish. I always had trouble with the pillar. Other climbers have said the top part is the crux.
The pillar can be skipped by a small passage way up besides the pillar at WI3+, looking up left side. This route is good for mixed climbing during drought winters.
Southern most route and after this ice there is only the main cliff's rock.
several ice screws (wide range), a couple of pins and small wide range trad rack. This is too much rack. I don't know the pro. Its what I took on the first ascent.
|By bradley white|
Nov 21, 2012
On the first ascent I was leading the pillar and placed a over my head screw. Climbing up to go beyond the screw I kicked into the gate of the carabiner attached to the screw and the gate closed on my crampon. Stuck and angry, first thing I did was weld the axes, have a cursing fit about how stupid I was, place a not so hot screw, get lowered off these three things, make my stuck leg bent max at the knee, be in that position taking off the crampon. When free of it I still had to get the crampon back on my foot and continuing climbing up to the stuff with one ax. This probably took 45+ minutes, the day was cold and I had to do stuff dealing with that crampon without my gloves on. Tom wasn't cold and was very entertained by my foolery.