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 ADVANCED
Bitty Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A's Jax 
Bitty Buttress 
Buzz, The 
Electricity 
Hand is Quicker than the Eye, The 
Holy Ascension 
Jaguary 
Jam Left 
Jitters, The 
Lorax, The 
Mirage (aka Right Crack) 
Moby Dike 
Peach Monkey 
Peapod 
Return To Sender 
Reveille 
Rise and Shine 
South 
Spins, The 
Treetop Landing 
Welcome Home 

The Spins 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type: Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
FA: Mark Tarrant, Richard Wright, Peter Hunt. 01/05
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 413
Submitted By: Mark Tarrant on Jan 29, 2005
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  • Description 

    The Spins is on the center and right side of the flat wall just right of The Buzz. Start in the obvious right-slanting crack (.9+, great gear), then follow 5 bolts to the right arete. A little momentum will help with the first hard move at bolt 2 (.12a/b). Pass a difficult section before the crux at the fourth bolt. A final tricky move will put you near the anchor. Expect several hard sequences on good rock with few if any rests up to the last bolt. The wall is pretty steep and, like all the routes in this alcove, heats up nicely in the morning sun during the fall and winter.

    The quality of the route is somewhat diminished by its close proximity to a nasty chimney on the right. Watch out for a big, detached pillar resting precariously in the chimney near the third bolt. It should be avoided at all costs.


    Protection 

    Wires and medium cams. 5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. 60'.



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