|389 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet|
|FA: ||Mark Tarrant, Richard Wright, Peter Hunt. 01/05|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||Mark Tarrant on Jan 29, 2005|
The Spins is on the center and right side of the flat wall just right of The Buzz. Start in the obvious right-slanting crack (.9+, great gear), then follow 5 bolts to the right arete. A little momentum will help with the first hard move at bolt 2 (.12a/b). Pass a difficult section before the crux at the fourth bolt. A final tricky move will put you near the anchor. Expect several hard sequences on good rock with few if any rests up to the last bolt. The wall is pretty steep and, like all the routes in this alcove, heats up nicely in the morning sun during the fall and winter.
The quality of the route is somewhat diminished by its close proximity to a nasty chimney on the right. Watch out for a big, detached pillar resting precariously in the chimney near the third bolt. It should be avoided at all costs.
Wires and medium cams. 5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. 60'.