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 ADVANCED
Castle Rock - Southwest Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ball and Chain S 
Cryptology S 
Great Steps of Cheops, The T,TR 
Sphynx, The T 
Turret, The T 

The Sphynx 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Old School
Page Views: 773
Submitted By: C Miller on Aug 22, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Description 

Start up the obvious thin/hand crack just left of Ball and Chain or climb a low-angled ramp to reach a 4" crack about ten feet to the left and then continue up the heavily featured face above to anchors.

Aside from the start this is really a face climb with gear for protecton (as well as the odd slung knob) which might not make it the best for those breaking into the grade but for everyone else it's just a blast on excellent quality rock.

Location 

Located between The Great Steps of Cheops and Ball and Chain.

Protection 

Gear to 4", bolted anchor/rap


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By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Apr 2, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Years ago I arrived at the top of this climb only to be told by the SB SAR people that I couldn't clip the anchors because they were going to use them ! My response was rather rapid "oh yes I am, watch me".
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jun 23, 2014

Stemming across the wide crack and then pulling on giant jugs through a small overhang make for an exhilarating finish to this route. Feels at least 5.7 with great exposure.