|Photos:||Recent | Best | Popular|
|Administrators:||Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)|
|Submitted By:||George Bell on Mar 5, 2007|
|re: Guide book to buy for the Needles?||brandonemery||5 hours ago|
|re: Latest news from Cody||Reid Kalmus||8 hours ago|
|re: Lander/Tensleep/elsewhere partner needed||luker||1 day ago|
|re: Lost gear in Vedauwoo||cstebbins024||2 days ago|
|re: Looking for partners in South Dakota||Hooten||3 days ago|
|re: Spearfish partner||Hooten||3 days ago|
|Looking for tickets to the Bozeman Ice Fest||Ryan Lee||3 days ago|
|re: Devils Tower partners through october||Sam Siemens-Luthy||3 days ago|
|Comments on The Sphinx||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Bogdan P
From: Chicago, Il
Oct 11, 2012
Route is accessible from Dinwoody Glacier as well but the glacier is steeper and the bergschrund is much larger than what you encounter coming from Sphinx glacier. Guidebook makes it sound like a slightly harder route than the Sphinx glacier approach but the two are pretty different. We did not encounter any technical obstacles on Sphinx glacier, but did have some minor ones on Dinwoody.
Standard glacier travel equipment does not seem sufficient. In the picture below we're standing on the sphinx/woodrow wilson ridge at a point not much higher than the saddle looking south east. The easiest route up appears to be to the north of the saddle where the schrund narrows. This then requires an exposed traverse south across the glacier to reach the saddle.
We did not feel we were equipped for the traverse (glacier was bone dry, we had no screws and of our four axes only two were technical), so we opted for an alternative on rock that went straight up to the ridge from the schrund. It was straightforward to find a technically trivial route but the rock quality was poor, it was exposed the entire way and was rat infested.
All in all, Dinwoody Glacier route was pretty fun, and if you can make the traverse to the saddle it's definitely the more interesting approach. Assuming you have a light rack and rope for the peak itself, also bring two ice tools and some screws to maximize chances of success.
September 20th, 2012
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.