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The Sphinx Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in The Sphinx

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Sphinxter Says What? T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
	BFE Dihedral, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Curse of the Pharaoh T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Face the Sphynx T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2 R
	Half Man, Half Beast T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	I Sphynx There's a Way T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Lower East Face, Sphinx T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Pharaoh's Tomb T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Sphynx Not T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Tiller, The T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
	Upper East Face, Sphinx T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b

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Explore this area in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

GPS:	39.95768, -105.28725 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Stefan Griebel on Apr 14, 2004 · Updates
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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:

See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….

Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:

flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…

Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.

Access Issue: Raptor Closure Details

The Sphinx is also in the closure that typically includes crags closed 1 February to 31 July:

The Goose
Goose Eggs
East Ridge
Mars Block
Nebel Horn
Tower of the Moon
Jamcrack Spire
The Pyramid
Incognito Crag
Devil's Thumb
Shadow Fax
Isolation Rock
Sunset Wall
Devil's Wing (W. Face)
The Matron
Lost & Found
The Sibling
Toddler Rock
Medusa Rock

Description

The Sphinx is a "fierce little crag" (Rossiter, 1999) south and across Shanahan canyon from the Shanahan Crags. When viewed from the north, you will immediately notice that the East face of The Sphinx is unlike most Flatiron East faces - it is steep! You can see The Sphinx well from several spots along the Mesa trail between the North and South Shanahan trails. Look for a fairly small, blocky Flatiron with a few trees on a ledge system about halfway up. This ledge system separates the Upper and Lower East Face routes, and you can walk off from here. There is one large tree on The Sphinx below and left of the aforementioned ledge system. This tree is directly above the chimney pitch of the Lower East Face (in fact, it is the anchor!), which can also be seen from the Mesa Trail.

The Riddle of The Sphinx is that it is one of the most seldom climbed Flatirons. The lower section isn't exactly chossy, but it is of lower quality than the classic upper east face. Still, this unique crag merits a visit.

Getting There

Approach from the Cragmoor Trailhead via the South Shanahan Trail. Turn left (south) onto the Mesa trail, and continue for a hundred yards or so until you see a good spot to begin bushwacking up directly toward The Sphinx. The bushwacking is not too bad, and you should arrive at the base of the rock and the start of the lower east face shortly. Allow 45 minutes or so for the approach.

To descend from The Sphinx, downclimb the upper east face (class 3), and walk off the tree-covered ledge system to the north. Rock hop down into Shanahan canyon, and pick up the very faint Shanahan Canyon trail back to the Mesa Trail. Either go south and the Mesa trail and then left onto the South Shanahan Trail, or turn north onto the Mesa trail and make a scenic loop by descending the North Shanahan Trail back to the Cragmoor Trailhead.