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The Warlock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dragon's Back 
Flying Warlocks 
Howling, The 
Imaginary Voyage 
Planet Waves 
Romantic Warrior 
Sarcophagus, The 
Sea of Tranquility 
South Face 
Spell, The 
Titanic, The 

The Spell 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Clark & Steres (August 1976)
Page Views: 5,423
Submitted By: Scotty Nelson on Jul 24, 2006
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Tara Misiewicz midway through the route


The Spell is the obvious chimney splitting the West face of the Warlock.

Pitch 1: approach pitch over a chockstone to the base of the chimney proper.

Pitch 2: a full 60m pitch up the chimney. You can walk your biggest cam up with you.


To approach the Spell, first climb the first pitch of the Howling (worthwhile warmup in itself). Now, with 2 ropes rappel into the intimidating gully on the west face. Walk about 100 feet over to the start of the route.


Bring some big gear.

Photos of The Spell Slideshow Add Photo
I used a monstrous rack to lead The Spell.
I used a monstrous rack to lead The Spell.
Reid belaying me on The Spell (.10) Warlock Needle.
Reid belaying me on The Spell (.10) Warlock Needle...
Tara Misiewicz belaying Jared Vagy is some squeeze chimney action up top
Tara Misiewicz belaying Jared Vagy is some squeeze...
Tara Misiewicz belaying Jared Vagy at the crux roof
Tara Misiewicz belaying Jared Vagy at the crux roo...
Scotty points out the Spell.
Scotty points out the Spell.
Comments on The Spell Add Comment
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By J Smith
Jun 30, 2010

You can also approach The Spell via the chimney just right of The Howling. It is mostly 4th class with a 5.7 move midway. At the top tunnel through and there is a bolted rap station. A single 70m rope will get you down into the gully.

By Bryan G
From: San Jose
Jul 19, 2010

On the monstrous second pitch I placed two #4's at the crux roof, one #5, one #3, and then walked my #6 up with me for a ways (all pieces were BD Camalots). It's definitely doable with a single set of big cams although having two bomber 4's in that roof made me happy.

By JaredVagy
From: Santa Monica, Ca
Jul 26, 2011

Beta for folks who are not super skilled in wide cracks (AKA me):

Pitch 1: Very mellow
Pitch 2: I put a number 4 in a good stance in the roof; pulled the crux and then placed one more #4. I brought two 6's, three 5's, three 4's, three 3's, one 2, one 1, and a few C3's and finger sized pieces. It is nice to have two sixes up top if you are not comfortable in offwidth. The alcove belay took the finger sized, C3 and #1 very nicely.
Pitch 3: Climb out of the alcove and pull an easy roof (protects with #5) and aid or free climb a bolt ladder. Make sure to unclip your first draw as it may cause rope drag.

If I were to lead it again I would either bring 1 more #6 for good measure; or suck it up and run it out and stay on the outside of the chimney which is easier than if you were deeper.