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Scotty points out the Spell.
The Spell is the obvious chimney splitting the West face of the Warlock.
Pitch 1: approach pitch over a chockstone to the base of the chimney proper.
Pitch 2: a full 60m pitch up the chimney. You can walk your biggest cam up with you.
To approach the Spell, first climb the first pitch of the Howling (worthwhile warmup in itself). Now, with 2 ropes rappel into the intimidating gully on the west face. Walk about 100 feet over to the start of the route.
Bring some big gear.
I used a monstrous rack to lead The Spell.
Reid belaying me on The Spell (.10) Warlock Needle...
Tara Misiewicz belaying Jared Vagy is some squeeze...
Tara Misiewicz belaying Jared Vagy at the crux roo...
Tara Misiewicz midway through the route
|By J Smith|
Jun 30, 2010
You can also approach The Spell via the chimney just right of The Howling. It is mostly 4th class with a 5.7 move midway. At the top tunnel through and there is a bolted rap station. A single 70m rope will get you down into the gully.
|By Bryan G|
Jul 19, 2010
On the monstrous second pitch I placed two #4's at the crux roof, one #5, one #3, and then walked my #6 up with me for a ways (all pieces were BD Camalots). It's definitely doable with a single set of big cams although having two bomber 4's in that roof made me happy.
From: Santa Monica, Ca
Jul 26, 2011
Beta for folks who are not super skilled in wide cracks (AKA me):
Pitch 1: Very mellow
Pitch 2: I put a number 4 in a good stance in the roof; pulled the crux and then placed one more #4. I brought two 6's, three 5's, three 4's, three 3's, one 2, one 1, and a few C3's and finger sized pieces. It is nice to have two sixes up top if you are not comfortable in offwidth. The alcove belay took the finger sized, C3 and #1 very nicely.
Pitch 3: Climb out of the alcove and pull an easy roof (protects with #5) and aid or free climb a bolt ladder. Make sure to unclip your first draw as it may cause rope drag.
If I were to lead it again I would either bring 1 more #6 for good measure; or suck it up and run it out and stay on the outside of the chimney which is easier than if you were deeper.