|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 300', Grade II|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Clark & Steres (August 1976)|
|Submitted By:||Scotty Nelson on Jul 24, 2006|
|Comments on The Spell||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By J Smith
Jun 30, 2010
|You can also approach The Spell via the chimney just right of The Howling. It is mostly 4th class with a 5.7 move midway. At the top tunnel through and there is a bolted rap station. A single 70m rope will get you down into the gully.|
By Bryan G
From: San Jose
Jul 19, 2010
|On the monstrous second pitch I placed two #4's at the crux roof, one #5, one #3, and then walked my #6 up with me for a ways (all pieces were BD Camalots). It's definitely doable with a single set of big cams although having two bomber 4's in that roof made me happy.|
From: Santa Monica, Ca
Jul 26, 2011
Beta for folks who are not super skilled in wide cracks (AKA me):
Pitch 1: Very mellow
Pitch 2: I put a number 4 in a good stance in the roof; pulled the crux and then placed one more #4. I brought two 6's, three 5's, three 4's, three 3's, one 2, one 1, and a few C3's and finger sized pieces. It is nice to have two sixes up top if you are not comfortable in offwidth. The alcove belay took the finger sized, C3 and #1 very nicely.
Pitch 3: Climb out of the alcove and pull an easy roof (protects with #5) and aid or free climb a bolt ladder. Make sure to unclip your first draw as it may cause rope drag.
If I were to lead it again I would either bring 1 more #6 for good measure; or suck it up and run it out and stay on the outside of the chimney which is easier than if you were deeper.