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BETA PHOTO: The Sowsuckle, 5.12-
Face climbing and shallow corners (10c) lead to a particularly blank section of steep face between the 3rd and 4th bolts (12a/b). Height may be a factor in pulling the crux moves. Above, a shallow crack in a corner leads to easier moves to the top.
After the first (top rope ascent) a key knob broke off, rendering the crux moves significantly harder.
This fun (but tricky) route lies about 50 feet right of Coarse and Buggy
on the rounded northeast corner of Dihedral Rock. Often overlooked, this route is well worth doing if you are in the area.
4 bolts, 1 manky fixed pin; Plus: thin to 2 inches.
By Vernon Stiefel
May 4, 2004
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
When I lead this route in November '01, I thought the 11d rating published in the guide book was fair. The dihedral section above the final bolt is very memorable and relatively easy.
By peachy spohn
Mar 26, 2009
I got on this route and found it to be fairly crumbly and not so much fun. The crux move is a very big reach and there are not many options for the feet, so you just got to huck. The lower part is by far the 'best' part.
By Kevin Volkening
Feb 8, 2012
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Coming from MT . . . this route deserves more stars. might not be a classic in J-Tree standards, but is still a classic in comparison to MT climbing!